Anyone here do a foam insulation retrofit? My doors are old but in great condition, but they get hit by the PM sun and make the garage unbarable. So I want to add the foam to them. Tips, tricks, sources?
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Anyone here do a foam insulation retrofit? My doors are old but in great condition, but they get hit by the PM sun and make the garage unbarable. So I want to add the foam to them. Tips, tricks, sources?
I would only mention that even though it?s just foam it may make the door heavier and you may need to replace the springs to handle the extra weight.
We had left over foil backed exterior 1/16" thick sheets i used on the 8 x 16 door. I put the foil faced side on to the door, using exterior silicone type contact cement. With 4" fiber woven tape on the ends. Basically everything used was from material we had laying around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Erni
If you have a standard 7' h door it's not bad. Once you go over that is where it gets a little more $$ Mines 16' w x 8'h
I considered using the foam garage door sections. But they're damn proud of them price wise. Depending on sq ft of the door. Here's a decently priced light material that's easy to cut and work with. Unlike the foam board that's messy when cut and doesn't bend enough, if at all. To fit the entire door panel.
https://www.ecofoil.com/Single-Bubbl...ingle%20Bubble
This one is also on amazon
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supershield....c100677.m4598
If you don't care about cosmetics a roll of bubble wrap will work. Anything to reduce that direct sunlight heat from radiating in to the garage helps. Even in winter there's a noticable difference how much less the mini splits run. I also have ceiling fans at each end to circulate air.
I can post a pic later of what my shop door looks like
Oh i will, depending what material you use. So one should factor in another $70-120 for readjusting the spring[s] after the door[s] are finished. I suggest calling around for price quotes before starting. So you know a time frame for service, once finished.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
Do you need to do this, so you don't burn out our garage door opener a few years early or have it rip itself out of its mounts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Great-Kazoo
I know it should not matter but cosmetics will be tsken into account.
Good tip on on the springs.
Possibly both. You need to adjust for the additional weight. Not only when lifting, but lowering as well. Even an extra 15# when lowering can cause failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by mb504
On my last house, I used the fiberglass insulated drop ceiling tiles. They were easy to cut with a utility knife, and the white side faced the garage. Looked nice, gave some insulation, and quieted the door a little.
https://i.imgur.com/kXT9IlTm.jpg
I ran out of the foil faced board towards the bottom. So i used some of the shop insulation roll, that was left over.
https://i.imgur.com/hYs5dUSm.jpg
I bought three or maybe four sheets of rigid foam insulation at whatever thickness matched the width of the c-channels in my garage door panels. Think it cost $100 and took about a day. They were a surprising pain in the ass to cut, though. A heat-knife with a really long blade would probably be ideal. After hand cutting two sections, I just ran the rest through my table saw. Foam snow everywhere.
I don't know that I have a direct shot of my garage door, but it's in the background of a lot of my project pictures.
https://www.johnnyego.com/wood/2015P...orkbench19.JPG
https://www.johnnyego.com/woodwood/2...cabbuild02.JPG