Diamond sharpener advice

I've always just used what I've had for stones, so my knowledge on the subject amounts to almost nothing. I am looking to upgrade to a diamond set. I need something for my small pocket knives, kitchen knives, and ice auger blades. My new EDC is 110V and it's not easy to sharpen, so may have been the final push I needed to upgrade my sharpening.

I like my knives sharp, but I haven't found a razor edge to be all that long lasting, or totally necessary. I've also never had to use a coarse stone on a knife. All my sharpening has been touchup to get the edge back, so I am wondering if all I need is a fine stone. I've never used diamond, and all my stones are second hand, so I'm not even sure where they would be classed. I'd like to hear your thoughts on what's necessary and good to have.

I was considering a DMT Duo-Sharp stone, but don't know what I need for coarseness. Or if that's even a good way to go.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...rsecoarse.aspx

Second, I'm intrigued by the DMT sharpening system. I can't decide if it's a gimmick or something useful. I've found that keeping the factory edge angle is very important on the ice auger blade, and was thinking that system might be useful. Has anyone ever used this, and what did you think?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DMT-Diam...LUXE/307438558


The eze-lap diamond stone looks like a good solution too. I run into the same questions on coarseness of course.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/...-set-of-4.aspx


Thanks.

For my kitchen knives I just use a steel and I keep my wood carving knives razor sharp with a leather strop and compound.
I had an older guy tell me a long time ago that if I kept my knives sharp I would never need sharpening stones. The only times I've had to really work on an edge was when I bought used knives. Sorry no experience with the diamond sharpeners.

I have a set of stones that I use with oil for really dull knives, and I've never needed the "course" one. I'd rather take my time and get it right.

Like SL, I just use a steel on my kitchen knives. Got them as a wedding gift back in '92, and they're still going strong.

For a super fine finish to the edge of my knives, I use a Case Moon Stone (ceramic). I bought it from Coast to Coast hardware in Oregon back when I was in High School. I don't think they've made them for quite some time, but I see used ones come up for sale occasionally on the Interwebs: https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com...ic.php?t=41936

How fine of an edge does one need on an ice auger? Seems like something I'd sharpen with a file, like a lawnmower blade, but I don't have any experience with them.

ETA: Yeah, I confirmed that I don't know jack about ice auger sharpening. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube using anything from a wet wheel to various grades of automotive sandpaper. When I hear a professional sharpener referring to using a chisel edge grind, they're pretty damn sharp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gman

I have a set of stones that I use with oil for really dull knives, and I've never needed the "course" one. I'd rather take my time and get it right.

Like SL, I just use a steel on my kitchen knives. Got them as a wedding gift back in '92, and they're still going strong.

For a super fine finish to the edge of my knives, I use a Case Moon Stone (ceramic). I bought it from Coast to Coast hardware in Oregon back when I was in High School. I don't think they've made them for quite some time, but I see used ones come up for sale occasionally on the Interwebs: https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com...ic.php?t=41936

How fine of an edge does one need on an ice auger? Seems like something I'd sharpen with a file, like a lawnmower blade, but I don't have any experience with them.

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Thanks for the reply. I'm not 100% set on Diamond, It just seems to be what all the videos talk about. I did get an edge back on my 110V with my stone, but it was a learning process. The marker indicated my angle was all messed up on one side, indicating I'm not very good at hand sharpening. I also think I may need a ceramic sharpener to finish this steel properly. I am wondering if just a few strokes at a larger angle to deburr the edge and make it right.

As for the auger blade, the sharper the better, but it has to be at the correct angle. I messed up the angle a little bit the first time I sharpened one and it wouldn't even touch the ice. It made it completely unusable. Even with a power auger, a sharp blade makes a big difference in performance. I just went and checked mine, and it's still sharp enough to cut you bad if you weren't paying attention.

I'm seriously considering a sharpening system like the Wicked Edge Go or the Edge Pro Apex 3. It's more money than I am comfortable spending, but I'm one of the odd people who doesn't actually enjoy sharpening their knives. A jig to get the angle right the first time is sounding pretty good right now.

https://wickededgeusa.com/products/wicked-edge-go

https://www.edgeproinc.com/apex-mode...system-p6.html

I had a friend demo his Lansky sharpening system to me. It seemed plenty adequate for my usage so I ordered the 4 stone diamond kit.

Thanks for the input everyone.

I've got the DMT and Smith sharpening system-both presents- and if you use them as per instructions they work well. It seems to me the sharpening stones or diamonds wear down a little fast. If I'm just wanting to work a blade back up to par I either use my three sided Arkansas stone or my original Buck sharpening stone and finish stone very contemplative for sure kinda like putting a good clean on a weapon.

Check out the Spyderco Gauntlet system. They offer a couple of variations reasonably priced. I happen to be a Spyderco dealer.

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/det...t-Premium/1202

Not sure if you already made your purchase but I've used the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the Wicked Edge Pro.

The Sharpmaker is great for simple touch ups and steels that aren't difficult to sharpen like VG10 and ATS34.

If you're re-profiling an edge, working a chip out or have hard steels like 110V then the Wicked Edge is the way to go. Be sure if you get the WE Go that you have something substantial to secure it to.

In my experience, you would use diamond impregnated stones when you need to hog off a lot of material quickly. Think 30 grit sand paper.

I just run my Oregon blademaker with 400 grit. For a razor edge, I turn the belt inside out to take off the wire edge. I know it wasn't what you were looking for, but I sharpen a lot of knives. Friends and coworkers found out I can put an edge on about anything and bring them to me. It is also nice to use at the fire house to keep axes and wildland tools sharp.
As for diamond sharpeners, I have used the thin ones with plastic backer and did not like them. I like the one from harbor freight that has the box with one mounted on each side. It does not flex and holds it on a bech quite well woth the feet.