Can you solder Brass with regular solder or do I need a different kind of solder?
Anybody know?
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Can you solder Brass with regular solder or do I need a different kind of solder?
Anybody know?
Brass & Nickel Silver
The assembly of brass and or nickel silver kits, or scratchbuilding from these materials is as simple as general soldering ie normal electrical soldering. Providing the metal is clean, and the correct materials are used it is a very simple process. When soldering brass/nickel silver, it is important to remember that the metal acts as a heat sink that may inhibit the soldering process, and burn your fingers! It is therefore much more important to use 'tools' to hold brass/nickel silver when soldering.
It should also be remembered that soldering these materials requires the use of a phosphoric acid based flux. Always use in a well ventilated room and avoid inhaling any gas expelled during the soldering process. Always wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow the COSH directions on the bottle.
The materials and techniques for soldering are described in the following sections.
Materials:
1). Phosphoric acid based flux
2). 145o and 188o Solder (some modellers use normal 60/40 electrical solder rather than 188o solder)
3). Soldering Irons - 30w and 70w (on larger scale kits a micro blow lamp)
Soldering Process:
Basic Structure.
Having ensured best fit simply paint the joint with phosphoric acid flux and apply the pre-tinned soldering iron with 188o solder to the joint. The solder will flow along the joint depending upon the metal size and heat available. On large seams tack both ends prior to 'seaming' the joint. If the soldering iron appears to 'stick' to the metal, a larger soldering iron is usually required.
Detail Parts.
Most small detail parts can be added to the main structure using the above technique. However as the main structure increases in size, the more it acts as a heat sink. If more heat is applied, it is possible to desolder the main structure or other detail parts. This is easily avoided by using a lower temperature solder eg 145o solder. This is applied as above.
Lost Wax Parts.
Lost wax is the term used to describe cast brass parts. As they are often solid brass it is often necessary to tin these parts with 188o solder together with the superstructure, before fixing together with 145o solder.
Thanks! If i mess it up I guess I will just ask Sgt for a new one.
No problem, all I did was google "soldering brass"