Another REM 700 question

So I've got a plan to build a .260 within the next year or so...I'm just starting my research (I've got a lot to do as I don't squat). I'll probably buy a used REM 700 short action.

I currently own two 700s, 30-06 (cheap buy from Walmart) and a 300 WM (nice hand me down from the old man). The 30-06 has a sloppy/loose bolt (when open) and the 300 WM is pretty tight. This had me questioning.... When I'm out looking at rifles should I be looking for a specific model of a 700? Years it was made? Something tight? Will "truing" tighten up a sloppy/loose bolt?

Thanks
Aug

I guess the other question would be, is a sloppy bolt a bad thing for bench rest shooting?

For bench rest shooting, a sloppy bolt doesn't mean much. for precision rifle where a rapid follow up counts, a sloppy bolt can move the rifle out of position on cycling, delaying recovery time.

There are a lot of opinions on what years, models, etc are good, but if you are going to get a rifle and or action to rebuild, with a fresh barrel, blue printing will keep barrel true, and bolt true and seated in lock up.... but will not affect the bolt while in unlocked travel.

So, the real test of bolt travel out of battery is, can you run it fast from prone, sitting and standing, without binding, short stroking, or disrupting the gun. If you can, slop doesnt matter as long as it locks up to head space and tight.

If any of the above happen, get a different gun.

Using a Remington 700 Action as a base for a benchrest rifle is not a good plan from the $$$ end of things.

If you want to build something for the long range bolt gun matches like we run in Pueblo, Byers and Raton it is a fine base.

PTG makes some aftermarket R700 bolts that you can use to tighten up the slop. However that slop gives dirt and grime a place to go and not lock up the rifle.

Most guys pick short action rifles to build on. For a 260, I would get a short action.

Understand that I'm just now learning about all this... Thanks for the quick replies!

Edit: (My question below in red)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoser

Using a Remington 700 Action as a base for a benchrest rifle is not a good plan from the $$$ end of things.

If you want to build something for the long range bolt gun matches like we run in Pueblo, Byers and Raton it is a fine base.

I think I'd like to shoot in the matches you mentioned, at some point... Are there other fundamental differences between benchrest and these matches, besides shooting prone? I guess I'm not sure why the 700 wouldn't be a good plan from the $ standpoint for benchrest but it's G2G for the Pueblo, Byers and the Raton matches...?

PTG makes some aftermarket R700 bolts that you can use to tighten up the slop. However that slop gives dirt and grime a place to go and not lock up the rifle. Gotcha

Most guys pick short action rifles to build on. For a 260, I would get a short action.

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Bench rest action are fitted substantially tighter than even the best stock 700 , most are fit tight enough that blowing dust can cause function issues . To have an Remington action benchrest blue printed and replace the bolt with an oversized bolt to remove some of the tolerances that cause the slop is going to cost as much as the price of a good purpose specific action once the cost of the action and work are added up .

First You need to determine what the end goal with the rifle is . A field rifle and a benchrest gun are different critters and are put together entirely different . Pretty much the only similarity is the desire for the most usable accuracy available within the constraints of the game they play in .

For the field matches You talked about dirt isn't a huge factor at CRC and PWSA but at Raton it's made rifles choke before and will again . A gun / shooter system that shoots reliably 100% of the time to 1/2 MOA will rule the world at any of the field matches in the country . 1/2 MOA at a benchrest match isn't worth burning the powder with 100 yard groups hovering around .1 inch to be competitive .

Knowing where You are headed will make things easier to steer in the right direction . Same thing I tell all the guy's that ask these questions on here , come out to one of the matches and look at stuff and talk to people . Pretty much there is typically 100 plus years of combined experience on the line and you can see what works and what doesn't . The long range game has a very steep and expensive learning curve and learning from other people's mistakes , we all made them too , smooths things out a bunch .

OK I gotcha. I lumped benchrest and field matches into one. I think as of now I'd like to be shooting more field matches. I plan on showing up to the next CRC match.

I should change the title to "school me on precision shooting matches & hardware".

Let me hear some opinions on the different 700 models, years...etc

Thanks again for the responses!

I started with a 700 LTR in 308. I was able to get up to speed relatively quickly with everyone's extensive knowledge and helpfulness at the local matches. I realized pretty quickly I wanted a 260 though, along with tons of other accessories/upgrades (nice scope, suppressor, range finder, binos, etc).

I shoot a 260 now and couldn't be happier with the setup. That being said, starting with a factory 700 308 isn't a bad idea at all for the following reasons:
1) You can find a used rifle pretty easy for a decent price.
2) Ammo and 308 reloading components are relatively easy to find.
3) You can upgrade your setup in stages (trigger, stock, etc), as you try other shooters equipment. This is easier on the wallet (at least mentally).
4) Probably the cheapest way to get into the long range sport to see if you like it, while leaving room to grow (upgrades).
5) You can switch to a 260 with a new barrel and a trip to the gunsmith.

CWard's advice regarding attending the local matches is spot on. There is so much information you can gather from experienced shooters who are more than happy to share if you ask. You won't meet a nicer group of competitive shooters in my opinion. Don't be shy, come on out.

Thanks MrFish!

Yeah, I'm gonna have to attend some matches before I start spending $.

There are 2 schools of thought on where to go with a " starter rifle " either go with a 308 until it gets comfortable and then upgrade or just go with one of the hotrod calibers to start . There is merit in both positions and it probably boils down to whether you are going to stick with it for sure or still in the feeling things out phase .

The first question before caliber selection is are you going to load for this ? With the interest in the 260 I will assume yes as factory loaded 260 match ammo is expensive and relatively hard to come by .

For a builder 700 the easiest way to go unless you find a good deal on a used one is to get one of the bottom end SPS ADL hunting guns at wally world or one of the big box stores . These can usually be had for around 4 - 500 depending on sales and what not . Look for a gun with the same bolt face as a 308 .Off the top of my head 22/250 , 243 , 260 , 7-08 , and 308 all have this bolt face .

From there save up the cash or start acquiring the parts and go see Fritz at TJ's and have him build You a 260 . Be prepared to spend in the neighborhood of 2-3K for a rifle with quality proven components depending on the choices you make . And then spend between 1-4K on a piece of glass to put on top of it .

For a starter gun to test the waters with I'd look at either the 5R or a PSS in 308 which are both proven performers in the 3/4 - 1 MOA range out of the box . These can be had for around 1K plus or minus a little . From there get an EGW 20 MOA base , some Burris XTR rings , and an SWFA Super Sniper scope . All of this together depending on whether you go fixed power , cheaper , or variable , more expensive , will set you back about 1K . This set up will be more than accurate enough to learn on and the scope also has a track record of working properly so as not to complicate things doing the cheap scope doesn't track right dance . These guns will hold there value well and if you sell the set up it will net you the biggest return on your money .

If Your going to stick with it cutting to the good rifle from the git go will save some cash in the long run .

Plan on screwing a new barrel on a 260 every 3-4K rounds and 6-10K on a 308 . For most of us that works out to a barrel every other year on the 260 depending on how many rifles share the load . The guys with one gun are around every year .

More info can be found here , http://demigodllc.com/articles/