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We spend about $800-$1000 annually for our 65lb black lab/husky mix. We feed him Blue brand lamb and brown rice food (top notch stuff) and only take him to the vet 1-2 times a year for the essentials. Great return on investment as Buffalobo said. We've been fortunate to not need any surgeries or major operations for the 2 years we've had him.
if you work your dog and have them outside a lot there pads get super tough mine step on cacti all the time and it never pokes em if your doing road exercise there is a possibility they can tear that hard layer off but you just clean it up keep it bandaged for a few days with them in the crate so they don't mess it up again and they will be back up and running around fast....now if there couch potatoes they will have soft paws and you'll be fixing cut pads all the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by rocktot
I love blue! All my dogs were raised on itQuote:
Originally Posted by HoneyBadger
Awsome, thanks- What about training with a zap-collar, to stay 'in the fence'?
Also, for healers- we have free-range cattle and some donkeys- what issues could there be with that? They come right up to the trailer sometimes.
For 2 siberian huskies I think we run about 1500 a year for vet, food (Canidae), grooming supplies (required for huskies) and treats. Mine are spoiled since they are basically my kids. They aren't trained therapy dogs, but my girl can pick up on days when I'm not feeling the best and lays next to me no matter where I go in the house or backyard.
As long as there raised around them there shouldn't be any problems it pays to go with a reputable breederQuote:
Originally Posted by rocktot
Depends on you and dog. A well trained and controlled heeler, no big deal. An untrained, unattended heeler could cause all kinds of headache and endanger itself as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by rocktot
Up & down with heelers, or other working / hounds. They listen, unless a unlucky piece of game wander into their area. then off they go. With a collar they can be called off, depends how high you want to bring the shock up to.Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
Our own pups, NO GATE LEFT OPEN, ask beast556 how fast those fukers are, and gone. Fortunately they don't dig under or jump fences, That's a whole nother training routine.
If you are considering a male, get a neutered one, vs one you're going to neuter down the road. The ones who wander b4 neutering will do it after as well, not in the first week or so. but eventually they're on the road.
Training / discipline depends on you. We do or own , working on their weakness mor. Outside of 2 hounds in 36 years we've been fortunate how quick they have picked up on commands, alertness, etc.
Food wise it's Canidae (best overall results, coat, nutrition and stool wise to date) 1 40lb bag ? every month - month 1/2 [ish] They are given less in winter than summer, since they're not as active in colder months.
Shots, the required ones. They are both 2 yrs of age 50lb per.
My dogs are opposite, way more active in winter than in summer. Read up on the breed for food requirements. Working dog breeds will just naturally consume more than others, while some may not need the extra food but will gorge if you just leave a big bowl out.
Paint a visible line where the fence should be. (no go zone) train the dog to not go past that line/fence.Quote:
Originally Posted by cofi
A friend of mine has trained dogs for years, I've watched him work with them. They will not cross that painted line when I approach the open area of the fence. (gate) Eventually the pain wears off and all is good, they know where not to go and respond to verbal commands well. (some are a bit more stubborn than others at learning) :) Be sure they know who is boss, you, not them.
He's never used shocking devices. Just spanking on the rump to get their attention, never on the snout or face, that makes a dog want to bite someone.
Don't confuse them with commands. Down (laydown) Off (get off/jumping on someone) Stay, Sit. Use hand signals each time with the commands while in the learning stage. It could take time depending on the bread and demeanor of the dog.
He plays rough with the dogs too, wrestling in the house and stuff. Never teaches them to fetch. (working bird dogs) He will teach them to retrieve pheasant wings for bird training. Yet somehow his latest dog has discovered tennis balls buried from the previous dog, but refuses to throw them for her. He tosses them in the trash.
Be sure the family and friends know the commands and signals for the dog during training, keeps from confusing the pup and or if you want the pup to know who is master, the family and friends shouldn't try to train the dog. Only use the commands after the pup seems to know them pretty well.
But none of this has worked on my cats. I'm not sure it works at all. [ROFL1]
Just my opinion.. but if you're looking to get a dog based on cost.. you don't need a dog. That being said.. my dog is spoiled. Eats the same as Cofi's. Bout 25# a month. Depends on how active I've had him. He currently weighs in at 71#
He's on Orijen for food. Roughly $1k/yr. Not counting treats, toys. The couple trips to the vet for shots haven't been much at all. Maybe $200 since he was a pup. Neutered another $100. No major medical issues.. just a typical gas bag of a pit.