http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sourc...97511501102229
That would be quite the ear slicer.
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http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sourc...97511501102229
That would be quite the ear slicer.
Those are nice. Thinking about taking mine out of storage. Those thinking of trying it. You should. It has the potential for the closest shave. It's like reloading. Huge potential, large initial investment and a HUGE time kill. Even pinching pennies is a 100-200 dollar project.
For those interested in starting- a few things to consider:
If you can't sharpen a kitchen knife to the point of shaving hair off of your arm you won't be able to maintain a straight.
-learn to sharpen before learning to shave
you will ruin your first razor edge while stropping and then have to sharpen it back to restore the edge you rolled or tore off... And then strop it again just to get back to shave ready.
-learn how to strop first.
Learn how to do both of these on a $10 antique razor, before doing serious damage to your +$100 razor.
learn how to shave on a full hollow ground razor- they give much more feedback before they slice and are MUCH easier to sharpen and maintain. Look for a rounded tip- the straight 90 is nice for sideburns and such, but it does catch and cut when learning.
I started with my great grandfathers' straight razor, learning how to sharpen it- and what to sharpen with. I was extremely lucky I didn't ruin the blade completely before getting the hang of it. Now I use that razor occasionally, but use a $70 Dovo Half Wedge most of the time.
The thicker blade profile gets through my thicker hair easier, but is much more sensitive to angling while honing as well as poor stropping technique.
The razors pictured above look awesome- most look to be somewhere between half and full wedge. They look heavy too- that much weight behind the blade will make what would be a small nick into a hospital visit for someone who was rushing a bit. Still, cool
Maybe there is a steel so soft it cannot ever reach a razors edge, but I haven't found it.
Even very cheap and soft steel like my machete has yielded an edge that was able to remove the hair from my arm in 1 pass. That example is the worst I can think of because the metal was soft enough that it dulled by simply sheathing.
You can practice on any quality folder. The ColdSteel AK47 that I EDC is shave sharp 90% of the time and the steel on it is not the greatest. I end up stropping it on 2000grit sandpaper about 1/mo. Seems high maintenance, but I keep the sandpaper in my wallet and the task takes less than 2min to restore it to arm shave sharpness.
To to get a comfortable shave out of a pocket knife you must home the blade to about 8000 grit level (best accomplished by using a strip of balsa smeared with jewelers rouge) and then LIGHTLY strop on smooth leather. I have done it on my EDC knife just to see if it could be done. It can, but it is not ergonomic to shave with and it is much less comfortable on my face than my straight razor is.
One caution- when buying a cheap starter razor- do it right the first time and order an antique or some steel from Solingen Germany. The Afghanistan or Chinese produced ebay specials will sharpen to a fine enough edge to shave, but the steel is too soft to hold an edge for more than 1 or 2 passes on the face.
I got my razor and stones from strait razor designs. I try to use it twice a week. Takes some extra time to lather beard and a couple of passes for a close shave. I watch YouTube videos for tutorial.
One of those skills from time past but still handy.
Great advice fellas! Might just go find an inexpensive antique to practice sharpening on.
There is NOTHING like putting that hot lather on the face, and taking the time to get a real close shave. I get my hot lather out of this:
Attachment 43641
Handmade and looks nice on the counter next to the badger and blade.
Anyone gone to Roosters? Expensive, but the hot towel shave is a real treat.
All this talk about shaving with a little bitty blade.
Be a real man.
http://www.graphicaesthetic.com/wp-c...sx1oo1_500.jpg