Also deceleration and acceleration that causes the gravel to shift under your tires. Most of your washboards form at areas of acceleration first inmho
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Also deceleration and acceleration that causes the gravel to shift under your tires. Most of your washboards form at areas of acceleration first inmho
Study in Alaska (lots of dirt roads) proved that driving habits can only delay washboard on roads lacking proper binding agents...
It's a myth that you can prevent them by driving differently, short of a strict 3mph limit.
Do you find that asphalt washboards? The key is the material, and having good binders to keep the material from separating.
My road properly prepared did NOT washboard for over a decade, it was only when material lost the binders and there was loose gravel did it happen... And I frequently drove 30+ on it. The stress I grew up on was dirt, but they periodically sprayed it with tar (bitumen, actually).
Only place it ever washboarded was where the coating wore off.
Holy crap! I had no idea that happened.Quote:
Small washboard bumps have even been known to form on steel railroad tracks after prolonged use.
I would go crushed asphalt, that's what we use, and avoid crushed/recycled concrete because of the metal that comes with it and the flat tires that show up too, along with the fact it doesn't bind together as well as crushed asphalt.
Not all crushed asphalt is equal, some have more binder in it then other. We had 5 loads hauled in this past summer, and the driver brought one load from a different place and it was obvious to him, and us, that it was very dry, and because of that, it's not holding together very well, and once it starts to fall apart, washboards are soon to follow.
I've been traveling so slow to get pictures up. Here are a couple showing the grade. We have a guy coming out for a quote on Monday but I'm open to hearing more suggestions.
From the main driveway looking down, I think we could use a small ditch along the road leading down the hill. There are culverts run under the two driveways to the house in the distance and they're working fine.
Attachment 63789
Same place looking towards the main road, water melting from the front is being funneled down the driveway. I'm not sure if there's enough water for a culvert under the road but definitely looks like it could use something in the grassy area to help store excess water when it rains or the snow melts. Everything more than 2" deep is still frozen solid which isn't helping the drainage.
Attachment 63790
How far you plan on upgrading? Have you talked to the house below you to see if they're interested in upgrading, extending the improvements out more.
This.
Culvert pipe is relatively cheap, but I can't tell from the pics where it would drain to. My first impression is that you need to re establish the ditch on the upstream side of the road. From there, you could put a culvert in picture2 and reestablish that ditch to the left as well.