Looks like a brand new Duracell fixed the problem. Thanks for all the input though, I’ll keep it in mind for the future.
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Looks like a brand new Duracell fixed the problem. Thanks for all the input though, I’ll keep it in mind for the future.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Most of the lock manufactures use the same lock body size (standard footprint) so that mounting them requires no drilling and tapping new holes in the safes lock hard plate.
You want the convenience of the electronic keypad but the reliability of a mechanical lock, have you looked at redundant locks. IMO it's the best way to go!
Oh and I forgot to mention earlier, most safe manufactures don't warranty the locks as they carry a separate warranty that's 12mo....some commercial locks go 24mo. Sure you can probably persuade a safe manufacture to send a new lock out but not after several years of owning it.
So . . . stupid question, but is the general idea behind the redundant lock that if the keypad fails, you can just use the dial as an option? What's a ballpark cost of swapping out a mechanical for one of those?
I have a Bighorn safe that I got from Costco and it's been great for what I need it for. No issues with the electronic lock ever, but it does sit in the back of my head as to how hosed I'd be if it ever died.
Edit: Not sure what I was thinking when I typed this, but the current lock is KEYPAD . . . not mechanical as I originally wrote.
Here is one of opie's old posts that has pricing
https://www.ar-15.co/threads/141799-...eme-Safe-Lock?
Not sure if the pricing still stands.
I change my safe batteries when I change my smoke alarm batteries. Pick an easy to remember date...I chose the 4th of July as my annual battery replacement day.