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If you want to build it to code you'll want to ledger the house side with 2x8 treated minimum (2×10 better) lagged to rim and flashed. 3 posts set outside pad, on post bases, on 36" deep caisons. Double 2×8 (2×10) beam sitting on 4×4 posts. 2×8 (2×10) treated joist between ledger and beam. Now you can deck it. Typically joist spacing is 16" for 2× decking material. 3/4 and 4/4 composites sometimes go down to 12" spacing.because it can be kind of bouncy. Good luck
most counties require pressure treated lumber for the subframe,Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
your deck sounds like it will be short so it should be fairly stable, running the decking at an angle allowing you to tie the ledger to the rim joist will make for a much stronger deck, this is an often overlooked item on taller decks, al those deck that sway back and forth could be avoided.
railing are required to be no more than 4 inches apart, spacing them with a 2x4 will eliminate any question as to their proper spacing, notch your posts and through bolt the ledger and or beams. for a 10 foot wide deck i would use 2x12 joists, unless you are planning a beam at about 8 foot. on a really short deck a properly mounted rim joist could be sufficient.
pm me if you have a more questions, i have built many decks for past clients. the photos are of the deck and stairs my son and i built on our house last year, 10 off the ground at the end, front walkway is 58 feet long, the addition on the end is 20x21
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the depth of your concrete pier is actually dependent on altitude, 36 inches is a good rule of thumb, but there are areas depending on your location where county code is only 12 inches.
ledger must be lagged, must use flashing, use cross blocks at about 6 feet out, if you are using a beam 24 inches should be your longest overhang.
Wow, awesome information and some terms I don't know! I'll get some research done today. Any idea what and estimate cost would be on the framing materials?
also, as far as railing, this will be pretty low to the ground so my plan was to go no rails, any thoughts on this or things I would need to do different to accomplish that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sniper7
its been a little while since i did this for a living so for insurance purposes check with your building dept. before skipping your handrails.
General rule of thumb used to be that anything less than 30 inches above grade did not need railings, 120 sf or less did not require a permit.
your building department should be able to tell you your frost line requirements for your piers,
JMO but your deck will look much more finished with rails, regardless of the height. also will keep the drunk buddy from hurting himself on fourth of July and such.
Also home depot's website used to have a deck designing section and project estimator online.
This place is great! They have a lot to chose from and sometimes have deals on overstock stuff. Very helpful people and competitive prices.Quote:
Originally Posted by hghclsswhitetrsh
just remember 3, 4, 5 and you'll be good to go!
Good luck...
that works great as long as all the boards involved are straight
We went with a material call Trex Transcend, which is basically traditional trex wrapped in a fade-free urethane jacket. It was spendy, but after more than 6 years it still looks like the day we installed it.
Lowes will be stocking the red tinted pressure treat soon, depot already is.
Rockhound, great looking deck, and you are correct about the railing and insurance issue. Want stories about siblings and friends suing each other over such things? I have them.