Suspension thread

Remove the shock boots, they just trap dirt and moisture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish you would have suggested that 36 hours ago. I suppose if it's a problem I could always cut them off.
What if I just snip the zip ties on the bottom, so they are still "open" like the factory sleeves?

I'd just cut them off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

takes 2 days due to rusted on parts.


CRC or PB blaster is your friend. Like good tools, invest in some.

I've been spraying Luquid Wrench, then PB Blaster on everything since last week. I'm about to start my third can tonight. The issue is that the shock piston rotates with the top nut. Not nearly as big of a problem on front shocks where there is better access though. Poly insert and bushing are too wide on new front shock, requiring trimming. Easy fix, after an hour or so of struggling to find the easy fix.

Edit: I took a photo just for you. I'll post it tomorrow. One more shock than I'm going to bed. I barely have to work early tomorrow morning.

Greaseable sway bar bushings have been installed. I'm going to make extended, quick disconnects for the front sway bar while I'm doing all this. The rear sway bar has already been completely removed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/78...=w1689-h950-no

Front shocks are installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NX...=w1689-h950-no

New are surprisingly only about 1" longer than factory.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oY...A=w535-h950-no

But factory aren't even trying anymore, so the new ride will be very nice. Once compressed, a shock will slowly return to fully extended length. My factory front shocks were so blown they didn't even move once compressed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sH...w=w535-h950-no

The poly insert and bushing on the new shock were too long.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P-...=w1689-h950-no

I decided I'd press out the bushing in my old shocks, since I knew it was the correct length and inner diameter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cd...=w1689-h950-no

To press something out, you can use a socket the same diameter as your bushing on one side, then a socket with an inner diameter (I.D.) that is larger than the outer diameter (O.D.) on the other side so you can press the bushing through.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kB...=w1689-h950-no

I got the bushing out, but the rubber came with it and I couldn't pull it off, so I decided to try and melt it away.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...=w1689-h950-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zl...=w1689-h950-no

It was taking a long time, so I tried to persuade it some more.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ng...=w1689-h950-no

I eventually got it out, but there was still rubber all over it, and the outer diameter was much larger than what would fit in the new shock. After all that work, I just used the old bushing as a guide and used a hack saw to trim the new bushing to the proper length. Next I used a pocket knife to trim the sides of the polyurethane insert. I initially started with the hack saw, but sawing a bushing doesn't work well and a knife is much more easy and controllable.

In reference to the Great Kazoo's comments, this first picture is actually how the manual describes the method of removing the top nut. Vise grips on the "flats" of the top bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rZ...=w1689-h950-no

Then once you break the top of the nut completely off, you move to stage two like so. This takes all your strength in one hand to clamp the pliers hard enough to stop the piston from rotating, while it takes all your strength in your other hand to turn the nut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bw...=w1689-h950-no

I grew tired half way through and discovered that a pipe wrench does a great job of tightening against the rotation and I didn't have to squeeze anything.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...=w1689-h950-no

What's left is all four front CV boots, all four front ball joints, and the torsion bars. Any comments on the order in which I should proceed? I was planning on doing CV boots, then ball joints, then torsion bar, one side at a time. I'll end up making the quick disconnect for the front sway-bars at the same time.

It's looking like I'll need to use a pickle fork to get those ball joints loose. I can go rent one from Autozone, but if anyone (close to me) on here has some I can borrow for a few days (a week just in case) please let me know.