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For an outside stove, I wouldn't worry too much about baffles. Adjust the flue and front air vents to adjust the heat.
For an inside heater, I would add a baffle just so the maximum use of the fuel is reached. Maybe weld some angle iron length wise, on both sides, toward the top of the barrel. Slide in a couple of pieces of heavier gauge steel. Use the two pieces to adjust the amount of baffle. Make sure they are removable for easy cleaning of the top inside of the barrel.
Reminds me, I have to buy a chimney brush tomorrow.
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I like the idea of welding in the angle iron bracket, and having a slide in baffle. If using a baffle will give me a more efficient, cleaner burn, and allow my wood to last longer; then I want one.
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I need to put baffles in my current wood stove. It has tubes running through it for a blower. A few pieces of 1/8" strapping, across the tubes, would move the heat to the front of the stove. Not sure how much more efficient it would be. The cast iron stove gets pretty hot with very little wood as it is.
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Is there any reason I couldn't use a piece of floor tile for a baffle? Not exactly what they were designed for, but cheap enough to put in until I find something else. I think I'll try that just see how well it works.
ETA: A bit of an update. The paint is all dry, but the cheap Rust-oleum High Heat paint scratches easy. I can scratch it with just my thumb nail, not very hard at all. Also, I have our old oven/range sitting in my garage with 3 different oven racks in it. One of the racks from the big bottom oven fits right inside the barrel at pretty much the perfect height. Not as tough or heavy as rebar, but about 40x as cheap.
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I like that you're still working with this, Irving.
The oven rack idea sounds really good. I look forward to seeing your improvements and ideas implemented......pics.
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Everything has gone great so far, except for one thing.
I was able to obtain 10 sheets of 12' metal roofing, for FREE. I think I'll probably be able to pull of cinder blocks for a decent deal as well, just need to keep my eyes open. I ordered 20' of 6" stove pipe from Amazon for $19, but then shipping was $31. Still cheaper than the store I think. The stove pipe should be here this week. The glass oven door seal tape should be shipped soon as well, and I've got a sealer from Home Depot waiting for when that arrives.
The one thing I really screwed up on was leveling the flue. I sat on the stove and took my time making sure the flue was level. I drilled all the holes, got it installed, checked again and the dang thing isn't level! The legs weren't the most easy to line up and drill correctly either due to the structure of the leg and the placement of the holes. So there is a slight rock to the stove, but something a sugar packet ought to take care of ;). Anyway, I think I will be doomed to having a crooked stove pipe and looking like a dummy, unless I can just wedge it in there at an angle to compensate.
I took some pictures of the progress on the patio (roof), but I'll get more pictures of the stove up as they come available. It's just been sitting in the garage waiting for me to put it back together.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...004_214028.jpg
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Cool, Man.
First time projects always will have some revamps and "oh I shoulda's"..
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Thanks for the idea, Irving & thanks for the barrel, Otter! :)
Obviously, I still need to figure out its placement, burn off the paint, re-paint, etc...
http://i.imgur.com/3SOcedo.jpg
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Alright! If I could redo mine, I'd have placed the door like you did. Did it heat up as much as you expected?
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Oh to have my own back yard to enjoy one of these, someday!
