Pieces the size you were welding back bevel 1/16 when cleaning up from cutting. I like to space 1/32 when tacking, allows to knock to square/plumb.
Printable View
Pieces the size you were welding back bevel 1/16 when cleaning up from cutting. I like to space 1/32 when tacking, allows to knock to square/plumb.
I did bevel the edges, with a bench grinder, just no photos. Usually I would have tacked both sides as well, but I just welded one side at a time since it was only an inch of travel.
I understand, and agree with the idea of tacking all corners and jumping back and forth between pieces to control temp though.
Before when I was welding on 110, it seemed like I could barely weld a piece that thick. Now on 220, I'm finding that blowing through the edges is no problem.
I'll probably end up drilling those holes out bigger as well, since the idea was to run a piece of rebar through to hold it up. They are too small 7/16" as is.
Howdy ho's.
What you got in pics looks good and will last forever.
Do you mean elevate the piece 1/32 up above the plate and then tack? Would you do that with the magnet holding it? That's interesting as it would allow even more space for the filler metal to flow.Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobo
It's time for new tires, and a new windshield, for the van. Going to get snow tires, then regulars in the spring.
Also, I'm planning on getting a part time, night job this winter until work picks back up in spring.
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Magnet or thin narrow metal shim. Metal banding and/or shim stock.
Exactly.
Good luck to you sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving
Buy some winter wheels to mount those snow tires on, you'll be glad you did.Quote:
Originally Posted by Irving