First try...

[Zombie Steve]

Did yo heat treat the blank at all?

I shaped the knife (probably should have done more work up front, but I was worried about warping) then heat treated via the redneck method - charcoal briquettes and a hair dryer to create the blast furnace. Got it to where a magnet wouldn't stick and quenched in used motor oil.

A few lessons learned - once you test for it being non-magnetic, put it back in the fire before you quench... make sure it's even. Filing and sanding afterwards, it became apparent that the tip half of the blade is harder than near the hilt. Second lesson learned - used motor oil sucks. Not only does it make a filthy mess, but tempering in a toaster oven afterwards was particularly stinky. Also, I've done some reading in the meantime that indicates vegetable / olive oil gets the blade harder.


Quick question for guys with more experience - I'm obviously too late to do it on this blade (and at 3/16" I'm not super worried), but do you guys re-anneal the spine after heat treating for a little flexibility? If so, what's your preferred method? I like the idea of putting clay on the spine for heat treat (spine doesn't drop in temp as quickly as the rest of the blade), but I don't know the right / best method...

[BPTactical]

Quick question for guys with more experience - I'm obviously too late to do it on this blade (and at 3/16" I'm not super worried), but do you guys re-anneal the spine after heat treating for a little flexibility? If so, what's your preferred method? I like the idea of putting clay on the spine for heat treat (spine doesn't drop in temp as quickly as the rest of the blade), but I don't know the right / best method...

There are a few different ways to "Draw the spine" Steve, some will just quench the edge, the clay method which is trickier or here is how I have done it in the past: bring the blade to a polish then harden as the steel requires be it an oil or water hardening alloy.
Bring the blade back to a good polish and then with a torch, lightly play a clean flame along the spine, watching for color closely. You just want a light straw to VERY light hint of violet. Allow to cool. If the blade is such that you are afraid that the heat will get to the edge too quick go to the local welding supply house and get a product called "Heat Stop" paste. Pack the edge with it.
Nothing wrong with used motor oil, it is rich in carbon. The higher polish you have on the blade prior to heat treat the easier the scale cleans off. I have used dark cutting oil with good results.
If you are going for a grained look you just need to kiss it on the belt grinder with the grit of finish you want.

Find out what the critical temperature of the alloy you are using and when you go to the welding supply store pick up "Templaq" stick in the heat range you need, they are a paint stick that melts when you hit the temp you need. Paint line melts, the steel is ready to quench.

[Zombie Steve]

Do you think "drawing the spine" is necessary on a 3/16" knife? I would have thought you'd have to hold the spine at temperature for a while...

Thanks for the tip on tape. I may try just the bernzomatic on my prototype first...

[Ah Pook]

Looks nice.

[pickenup]

Nice.

[Irving]

So how many hours did it take you?

[hghclsswhitetrsh]

Very nice.

[Zombie Steve]

So how many hours did it take you?

I gotta have 10-12 hours in this thing by now. Next time, it will be quicker. I kept sanding to get it pretty, realizing something was off, then spending time filing and getting tool marks out again.

[SA Friday]

It will make for a better knife if you do, even on a 3/16" thick blade.

[Zombie Steve]

Finally got around to making the sheath.