Calling all diesel truck enthusiasts/experts

[enthusiast]

I am looking to purchase a used diesel truck and really like the Ford F250 with the 7.3L motor. I have just found one on Craigslist and am thinking about going and looking at it. I have been reading about the 7.3 motor and it generally gets favorable reviews.

Here is the one I found on Craigslist.
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/3887432301.html

What should I look for?

I found a thread from here that had a pretty good list of things to check for. If you are very knowledgeable I would even pay a little something to come and look at it with me. I really do not want to get a problem truck.

Ok all. This is my stab at streamlining the what to look for when looking at buying a 99-03 PSD truck. I will take the first stab at it and would like all of you to throw in what you think is specific to these vehicles. Some of it may be vehicle nonspecific but useful nonetheless.

My intent is to compile ideas (aka brainstorming) then cut and paste into one item. Can we do this Scott, Dan? Don't want a lengthy thread and I don't feel like doing a forever search. I know how it is searching for things here sometimes.

I will break it down into categories:

1. Visual: Body and rust are obvious items, nonspecific.

A. Engine

1) Check for any obvious fluid leaks, especially the engine valley, tranny weep hole area, and around the turbo and pedestal.

2) Check coolant with strips and find out the record of any changes or water pump replacement based on mileage.

3) If possible, do compression check, and Cylinder contribution test.

4) Inspect turbo inlet side vanes, should be straight and not dusted or jagged. Try to move the shaft in and out and up and down. Any real noticeable movement by hand is bad. Open and inspect air cleaner assembly for an idea of how it was maintained.

5) If possible, have fuel pressure tested at engine to check pump.

6) Check all intake /intercooler boots for residue or leaks and correct before trying to determine engine condition.

7) Look at oil pan for notorious rusting, make sure not beyond repaint type repair.

8) Know whether you're getting forged or PMRs. 99-mid 01 = forged, anything later is possible or for sure PMR. Not an issue until you exceed 400HP.

B. Transmission, driveline and 4x4 system.

1) Look for any obvious leaks.

2) With the system in 2wd, grasp and rotate both front drive axles and ensure they rotate freely. Go to the hubs, ESOF and manual should rotate from lock/auto to free with no problems.

3) Grab rear driveshaft and push up and down along it's length checking for worn u-joints or bearings.

4) Check front and rear differential levels. (An indicator of maintenance) Level should be at or w/in 1/2 inch of check plug.

2. Test drive. If you have never owned a 7.3 PSD, try to get a 7.3 owner to test drive it. I did this with a friend who bought his new. Invaluable evalation because you have no idea. A stock PSD may feel like a slug to the gasser uninitiated but it can pull a house off of it's foundation. So here we go.
A. Drive more than one PSD truck that you are considering. Whether Auto or Stick, it will give you an idea of the overall condition of the one you want to buy. Cost = 0. Learning curve = super high. Dealers have a ready supply.

B. Startup. Turn key and watch wait to start light. The colder it is the longer it will take but should take no longer than 15-20 seconds on even cold days. Start engine. Should crank readily and turn the tach while cranking (although mine does not). Should start within 2-5 seconds of cranking. The colder it is the longer it will take but if longer than 5 seconds there may be a problem. Even in colder weather. If it does not not start easily on the second try, suspect problems, possibly in the glow plugs or GP relays. If it does not crank readily, or seems to drag, suspect batteries first, starter next, then cables.

C. Driving. Check all operational items. Don't be rushed. This is a major investment and you want to get it right. Even small items like the cruise will set you back.

1) Auto tranny: will feel like it takes the throttle to get moving with a stocker. The higher the mileage, the worse this will be. The shift should be smooth but slippy with a stocker. Long to engage. Convertor lockup will be almost imperceptable, but there. Will lock up at about 45 to 60m depending on throttle in OD. Should drop out of OD with input to brake or reduction of speed.

2) Standard: give input

3) Ride: if it is bouncing down the road, you can look to having some problems to take care of. These can be tire balance. Tires, or some unexplained seemingly incurable symptom that you may have to live with which is unacceptable and not common, but does happen. Some say it is an out of balance driveline but there is no universal cure.

4) Exhaust drone. Only happens with aftermarket exhaust due to what I believe is harmonics resonating in the thinner walled aftermarket systems. Not a big solution at present but not a performance issue.

5) Performance. There is no hesitation in the PSD 7.3 when all is in working order. Any hesitation is an indicator of a problem. By design, if all is in order, at throttle tip in, it simply responds. No excuse such as mileage considerations. This = repair bill.

This is my humble stab at the start of a common. Please feel free to chime in with corrections or additions.

[Blowby]

Low miles, forged rods, good condition.
Questionable item: New coolant res. Did it discolor from oil contamination? That means head gaskets problems.

[Wulf202]

paging redneck

5) turbo lag and engine/ambient temp need to be factored

watch for anything coming from the exahust, note when and color.

[Rabid]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

[Dryfli]

Take it to a shop and pay them $100 to check it out well worth the money. $100 could save you $1000's

[BushMasterBoy]

I'd run a carfax check. Automatic transmissions always seem to get the least maintenance, was an after market cooler installed? Was the fluid changed regularly in the transmission? Fluid should be changed at least every 30,000 miles. I think a dealer certified vehicle might be the way to go.

[zteknik]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

Exactly
The 7.3 is by far one of the best diesels Ford ever put out.
I have been working for Ford for over 10 years and the only thing that I ever saw kill these were dumb ass kids and NY rust.

Cheap aftermarket stuff may look cool and sound nice but can ruin a good motor.If the exhaust isn't clamped on properly to the turbo downpipes it can cause not only an exhaust leak but can crack the flanges.
Some aftermarket air cleaners let too much stuff come through to the turbo and can cause damage,also a lot of them delete the mass air flow sensor and that can screw up your air fuel mixture.
I didn't quite see if it was chipped or not but just throwing a chip in,setting it to its highest setting with only cheesy exhaust and an aircleaner is not the way to do it.You need to upgrade quite a bit and fine tune it.

Now a lift kit is nice but it does put a lot of stress on a lot of components if there not upgraded as well.Ball joints,axle u joints tie rods, pitman arm,drive shaft u joints just to name a few.Also if the pinion angle isn't right you can bind up all the u joints.

Like Rabid said, a kid owned it -probably rode hard and put away wet...
I personally would steer any of my customers away from it and save them the headache of costly repairs in the future..

[enthusiast]

A few observations off the bat.
1. It is owned by a young gentlemen in the country
2. After market air filter
3. After market exhaust
4. Lifted
5. STI
All of this add up to work and ego, this truck has been rode hard since he has owned it. They have a great drivetrain but if something fails it gets expensive. With the above five reasons if you like it bring it to a garage so they can check the fluids for metal shavings and give it a full check. Personally i would be a little put off by it because i know there are plenty of older gentlemen that buy a diesel to move their camper and/or boat around a few times a year. That is just me though.

Thank you I was unsure of that myself. I have modified cars in the past (Subaru's) and would not buy someone else's modified turbo car. I will keep looking.

[LippCJ7]

I like the idea of getting it checked out but in the time it takes to do that you will lose it.

Tough deal, but I have one and will not sell it, I have owned my 2000 F350 7.3L its entire life and I love driving it, of course I love driving my 2006 Dodge 3500 CTD to though...

177,000 miles, mine has 330,000 miles, you will need to know if its on its first tranny, if it is then plan on replacing it before too long, yeah its a kid and yeah he could have hot rodded it but I promise you he couldn't have done anything to it I didn't. As others have said Maintenance is probably the most important issue.

[enthusiast]

Thanks for all of your replies. Are there other diesels I should consider beside the obvious Cummins ones? I am trying to stay around the 10K range as I want to pay cash.