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  1. #1
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    The wiring is exactly what I was thinking about. Especially now that I've walled in the exterior...
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  2. #2
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    New light. Now I can finally see. Before was a single bulb fixture that was not adequate for the room.


    Made sure to counter sink the holes on this part. I used three different drill bits.




    The lip on the bull nose has been a pain to feather out. This is the third, and hopefully last, time I've let dry and sanded before putting on another coat. I changed directions, so it doesn't have to be quite as smooth now.



    Got this rack at Home Depot for $32ish. Had to cut the bottom three "shelves" off as the spacing didn't match the spacing of my shelves. I could have made it work, but two of the shelves would have been just below a shelf with the door closed, restricting the height of what you could place there. The space between the door and shelf is 4" deep; the shelves are 5" deep. I made it work and honestly this probably looks better than a wooden one I was planning on making. For $10 more I could have gotten a rack that extended across 90% of the door but I was feeling cheap and thinking, "I don't want too much storage."



    I've got everything for the lighting except the switch and the lights so far. This is most dim, brightest, and a sample of the lighting on the most bright setting on just the left side. I won't really have any shadows once I get lights on both sides.


    "There are no finger prints under water."

  3. #3
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Lights finally showed up today and the magnet switch should be here by Friday. The Radio Shack lights are on the left in both of the following pictures. Radio Shack lights definitely more bright and more yellow. Radio Shack lights are much larger. The case on the RS lights is clunky and loose (you can shake it and hear the light strip rattle around). The protection around the Amazon lights is like molded together. I bet if you cut the Amazon lights, each section would still remain water proof.







    I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the chalkboard paint to go on smooth, even though I'm using a foam roller. I have a feeling some wet sanding is going to be in my future. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I tried doing some Youtube searches and found tips, but they vary too much to be helpful for me.




    I was really hoping the glass would have come out better, already being very smooth and all. If I can't make it look great, I'm going to scrape it off. This last picture is only a first coat to test how it goes on.
    Last edited by Irving; 12-18-2013 at 02:01.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  4. #4
    Grand Master Know It All
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    have you tried laying the door on its back and putting a very heavy coat on? bassically allowing it to puddle and cure.

  5. #5
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    I have't. I'm going to look into thinning it out to put it on in as light of coats as possible.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  6. #6
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    So I got my magnetic door switch in. http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Elect...ic+door+switch

    I hook it up as Normal Closed. As soon as I hook it up, the light comes on like it is supposed to. I close the door and the light goes off like it is supposed to. When I open the door again, it does not come back on. I can hear a soft clicking coming from the power supply. Nothing that I do with the switch will turn the light back on. I have to unplug the power supply for a good 10 minutes before it will work again, and then it is the same thing all over again. When reading the reviews, some people talked about it being sensitive to voltage or something. MORE people commented that they were using it for the same application that I am, and it is working great. Any ideas what is going on?

    ETA: Nevermind, I read the reviews again and all the bad reviews are exactly what I'm experiencing. Sounds like it is just cheap. I'm going to call Hobby Lobby and see if they have anything. Anyone have an ideas for local places in the mean time?
    Last edited by Irving; 12-20-2013 at 16:26.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  7. #7
    Self Conscious About His "LOAD" 00tec's Avatar
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    Are you using a relay on that switch? I used one of those switches on my toolbox with the same type of lights. That switch will only run a couple feet of those lights before its beyond capacity. Mine did weird on/off stuff before it melted. Using a relay fixed it.

    Feel the switch and see if its hot.
    Last edited by 00tec; 12-20-2013 at 16:37.

  8. #8
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Switch wasn't hot, at one point I thought I smelled something burning, but neither the switch, or the power supply was hot to the touch at all. What kind of relay? What size? Would I get the relay at an auto parts store or Ace?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  9. #9
    Self Conscious About His "LOAD" 00tec's Avatar
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    I used a 10a surface mount relay in my project because i had other stuff going on. Figure 1/2a per meter if those strips have 150leds per meter. Automotive relays work fine, or you could get a relay and box from radio shack to do it. I got my switch from ace on 120th and Colorado, wired it into a project box with my relay and a toggle switch so i could manually turn them off.
    Last edited by 00tec; 12-20-2013 at 16:51.

  10. #10
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    After watching an instructional video, I realized I had the switch wired incorrectly. Now that I have it wired correctly, it is still not working. Now it just stays off, or stays on, depending on how it is wired. Still sounds like a relay may be the answer. Is the purpose of the relay to reduce the draw going into the switch so it does not get over loaded?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

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