Help me build a corner pantry

[Irving]

For the door spice rack, you can get the wire ones that have screw hole attachment points at the top. This way, you can get away with a hollow core door - they have a solid piece across the top inch or so.
There are also the wire ones that have a hanger top that work well.

You can never have enough storage.

That is good advice. I think I'll look into that. How do you mount to a hollow core door though?

I agree about the laundry stuff, wrong place for it. Soaps & dryer sheets with foods? Bleh. But consider some space for storing appliances like electric skillets, popcorn poppers, bread machine, all the stuff we all have and rarely use.

Yes, I've decided that I'll just measure our current laundry basket that is pushed up against the wall, and build a cabinet around it. Large space for laundry on bottom, shelves for detergents and towels and stuff on the top. Will also place another shelf above the washer dryer and frame in a 3/8" piece of drywall (removable) to hide the water heater.

Maybe I'll take some pictures of the room as it is now, and turn this thread into a Laundry Room Makeover thread like I plan to do with my patio make over thread.

[Dave]

If you can get someone's extra formica counter boards cheap they'd make some sturdy shelves once you take the front lip off.

[davsel]

That is good advice. I think I'll look into that. How do you mount to a hollow core door though?

Most, if not all, hollow core doors are constructed with about a 1.5 x 1.5 piece of solid wood across the top. You can usually see it when looking at the edge/side of the door. If not, you can find the edge with a stud finder.
You can screw the top hanging shelf mounts into this piece and it will easily hold.
The lower hanging shelf mounting holes are really just to keep the rack from swinging a bit when you open the door. I have used small drywall type plastic inserts into drilled holes in the hollow door to secure the bottom with screws - they are not taking any vertical stress, and very very little horizontal stress.

Another idea: You could mount two vertical strips of that adjustable slotted shelving hanger stuff to the inside of the door - top holes and bottom holes into solid wood (there is normally about a 1.5 x 3 or 4 piece of solid wood along the bottom). Then you could use adjustable shelving/baskets hanging off those - probably more expensive.

[rondog]

Maybe I'll take some pictures of the room as it is now, and turn this thread into a Laundry Room Makeover thread like I plan to do with my patio make over thread.

Open the door and provide enough beer and I'm sure you'd get LOTS of suggestions!

[Wulf202]

I have a 32 or 34" prehung you can have. Cut the door down a bit only to find out it was the wrong width

[Irving]

I have a 32 or 34" prehung you can have. Cut the door down a bit only to find out it was the wrong width

Thank you but I think I'm going to look for a 24" door at the Habitat for Humanity Restore.

[Wulf202]

Here's the insides of an interior door I found today.

Cardboard on edge in the center. Edge is 5/8 bottom is 2" for trimming. Block near handle.

[Irving]

Here's the insides of an interior door I found today.

Cardboard on edge in the center. Edge is 5/8 bottom is 2" for trimming. Block near handle.

That is a serious YIKES. Don't tell anyone, but that is what my front door is like. You better believe I measured it to keep an eye out for a better one when I went shopping for doors yesterday.

I picked this solid core pre-hung up at the Habitat Restore at I-25 and Broadwayish for only $30. They had a hollow-core with a handle for $55. I'll use this one. They also had what appeared to be at least 10 brand new 16" pre-hung doors, but a 16" door on a 36" span would have been silly.


Here is what is done now. I'm trying to get the other wall up, hole in drywall patched, and shelf supports on the walls done tonight.



Here is what I've learned so far.
- Home Depot apparently sells 8' 2x4's and 2x4's that are marked as 8' long, but are only 92.5". That is 1/2" shorter than what I needed, causing me to use two base plates to make up the difference.
- If you're going to wear a tool belt, you have to put each tool you get out of it back each time you pull it out, otherwise you leave them all over the place and there is no point in wearing the belt.
- Don't use a crappy tape measure. The whatever amount of dollars you'd spend on a new one, that isn't twisted at the end, will be worth not messing around with it twisting around on you every time.
- Have a level, a T-square, and a small square, at least.
- If you are working in two rooms, don't carry your beer back and forth, just open a beer for each room. This will save you time and keep your hands free.

[Big Wall]

FYI

You have a big mouse in there already.

[Wulf202]

did you consider 2 16" doors together french style? they'd be less obtrusive in the room when open