Leaky water heater

[MarkCO]

Most manuals say to operate the T&P valve and check the anode annually. That is good advice, if you do it annually. If your WH is 4 or more years old, don't start.

The T&P valve can build up deposits and a flush is not a bad thing.

Generally, turn the WH off, close the supply valve, hook a hose up to the drain valve, let about 4 or 5 gallons drain out. If it is rusty and or chunky, you have some issues. Turn the supply valve back on an flush out another 4 or 5 gallons. Repeat until clear. IF you can get to the anode, with a socket, checking it annually is not a bad idea. Of course, when the sacrificial material is about 70% consumed, you should replace it. Careful with the Teflon folks. Isolate the tank from the anode and it is worthless. I have seen a lot of plumbers do this to try and stop a small leak...they make the tank fail sooner.

Water heaters these days are almost consumables, unless you get a better quality than consumer grade. In most cases, the difference between a 6 year and a 10 year warranty water heater is the label...same assembly, just paying more for a longer warranty on the same equipment. The stainless braided flex hoses with the "Santoprene" tubes are a higher potential for leaks. Copper is better, stainless tube is better. Especially on the hot side.

If I was buying Electric, I would look at the Rudd with the polymer tanks. If gas/propane, the $1000+ high efficiency units might be a good consideration if you are close to the sidewall of the house and can run the direct vent out the side. They have a much thicker tank, 2 anodes and will cut your water heating bill in half.

There is some good info here: http://www.disastersafety.org/studie...failure-risks/ Analysis of 700 WH leaks. I've probably done close to 1500 at this point...