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  1. #1
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Default Deck: need ideas/help

    I am thinking of putting a deck on the back of the house and am looking for some input. I will be doing it myself (no decking experience) but will have several family members who know what they are doing help me out!

    right now I have a 10x10 slab off the back of the house. It is poured right next to the foundation. On top of that right at the sliding glass door is a small 3x3 roughly slab poured as a step. It is 7" tall. I have 6" from the top of that to the bottom of the door.

    I only want the deck to go out the 10' away from the house. Along the house I have an addition 6' to the south and 8'4" to the edge of the house to the north.

    i don't have to go to the south and would be happy with a deck that is 18'4"x10'. Then I wouldnt have to move as many sprinklers and makes my life a little easier.

    So, I'm looking for ideas and insight as to what the best decking material is, what kind of cost I am looking at, if I need to pour more cement for the framework or another slab.
    All I have in this world is my balls and my word and I don't break em for no one.

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    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    The synthetic stuff will last forever but it's spendy. My deck is 10'x16' and to do it with the synthetic was going to run me about $3,000. And that was years ago. Cedar or redwood are your next best options. Probably half that cost. I did mine with pine and treat it every year. Cost me about $400.

  3. #3
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Yeah I was just looking at Home Depot, one piece 16' long 5 1/2" wide was $36....wtf! so I would be looking at $800 in just the top wood (no framework) for a 10x16. This is the veranda composite from Home Depot. Trex is more expensive than that.

    so I assume $1000 in just top wood. What do I need for supports/frame? Is that regular wood or is that composite stuff as well?
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    Machine Gunner Jamnanc's Avatar
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    There are some good pointers in this one though. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nz82fjXqFQ4

  5. #5
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Just found this: anybody use this stuff or have an opinion on it?
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_403875-46086...7C1&facetInfo=
    All I have in this world is my balls and my word and I don't break em for no one.

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  6. #6
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?
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  7. #7
    High Power Shooter jslo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniper7 View Post
    Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?
    Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit

  8. #8
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jslo View Post
    Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit
    Permit...ha! I'll give me a permit.
    All I have in this world is my balls and my word and I don't break em for no one.

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  9. #9
    Iceman sniper7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jslo View Post
    Framing needs to be treated and don't forget your permit

    Haha! Awesome news, Adams county doesn't require a permit for decks 30" of less above ground level. So I'm good to go
    All I have in this world is my balls and my word and I don't break em for no one.

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by sniper7 View Post
    Looks like the stuff from lowes would be under $800 for the top material for a 10x20. What kind of framing wood do you guys recommend?
    most counties require pressure treated lumber for the subframe,

    your deck sounds like it will be short so it should be fairly stable, running the decking at an angle allowing you to tie the ledger to the rim joist will make for a much stronger deck, this is an often overlooked item on taller decks, al those deck that sway back and forth could be avoided.

    railing are required to be no more than 4 inches apart, spacing them with a 2x4 will eliminate any question as to their proper spacing, notch your posts and through bolt the ledger and or beams. for a 10 foot wide deck i would use 2x12 joists, unless you are planning a beam at about 8 foot. on a really short deck a properly mounted rim joist could be sufficient.

    pm me if you have a more questions, i have built many decks for past clients. the photos are of the deck and stairs my son and i built on our house last year, 10 off the ground at the end, front walkway is 58 feet long, the addition on the end is 20x21
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    the depth of your concrete pier is actually dependent on altitude, 36 inches is a good rule of thumb, but there are areas depending on your location where county code is only 12 inches.

    ledger must be lagged, must use flashing, use cross blocks at about 6 feet out, if you are using a beam 24 inches should be your longest overhang.
    Last edited by rockhound; 04-09-2014 at 07:52.
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