Finally finished with the solar installation on my camper. Started a month ago but because of work and weather I just finished 10 min ago.
it was a lot more work on this one because there was almost no available space behind the fridge to run the wires. I had to remove the fridge vent completely (there is a non removable screen on top to avoid getting bugs and leaves behind the fridge) and runs flexible conduit to avoid having electrical rubbing with the back of the fridge components> Getting about 4amp right now, which is expected since the panel is flat and not pointing at the sun. The charge controller should give me a 24h report tomorrow as to how many amp/h were generated.
Last edited by ruthabagah; 05-31-2015 at 12:24.
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
ordered up my stuff a couple days ago. I'll get started on my setup once it arrives. (100 watt panel, charge controller etc)
this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mo...y+solar+panels
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
Good choice. did you upgrade for the LCD charge controller or took the standard one? The one that come with the package is fine, but limited if you want to add more panel down the line. I did the same thing, returned the one to renogy and they send me a replacement the same day.
Now what you need to complete this:
* Roof sealant (I use a LOT so I usually order 2 of them) : http://www.amazon.com/Products-017-1...words=sikaflex
* Cable Clamp: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender...ic+cable+clamp
* If you don't have one, I would strongly suggest a long drill bit (In a camper the connections are often all bunched up behind panels and other. This will allow you to drill with a lot a clearance around other connections/electrical) : http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-39106-8-...long+drill+bit
* depending on the length of your camper, 30 to 50 ft of 12 gauge electrical cable to go from the charge controller to the battery (if you choose to do it this way) less if you plug directly in the fuse box.
* stainless self drilling screws. I have used them for all my built and they work great.
* Ring terminal connector to connect to your battery.
Not required, but if you have one, or can borrow one, it will help a lot for running the wire: Inspection Camera. Again, I have found that neatly tucked behind a panel you could find anything and the unexpected.... Electrical, plumbing, gas line.... Just like in a house but probably worse.
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
I did upgrade the controller I believe, can't remember now. (edit, just looked, no I took the default controller, i can upgrade later)
I'm working with a popup camper, and might not even mount this to the roof. (for now anyways) I'll just stick the panel in the camper while traveling and then set it up once camped.
Thanks for the other information, sealant and offer of the camera. I'm not sure what I'll do, since working with the popup, I have multiple points of entry into the camper without hitting lines and such, especially if I don't go through the roof. I was originally going to get the boat rack for the top of the camper and then use that as the mounting point of the panel(s). I'm getting on a short time frame and might not have time to get all the things done I want for now.
Last edited by gnihcraes; 05-31-2015 at 18:59.
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
I have always used, and would recommend Dicor over Sika. I love Sika products for their polyurethane concrete joint fillers, but IMHO, EPDM roofs should be done with Dicor.
YMMV
http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-Rubber-S...keywords=dicor
Always handy to have a little on hand if you have a habit of dragging your rig through any trees. Hell, some of the older improved campgrounds we go to it's easy to snag a tree and tear/cut the EPDM roof when you're trying to make that tight corner with a 30+ 5th wheel.
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oh, i also ordered two of these, I will mount one on each end of the camper so we can keep cell phones and such items charged up.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00
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Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
Any reason not to buy a portable kit like this:
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_in...oducts_id=2748
I understand the convenience of hard wiring and roof mounted but I like the idea of being able to park under the trees and place the panel in the sun, where ever that may be. Also no drilling into the roof.