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thanks for the info. I haven't purchased it yet. I'll probably do a normal metal z bracket. Bolt the panel to the camper.Originally Posted by ruthabagah
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
Z brackets are the way to go if you have a standart rubber roof. I was able to fix the pannel on the roof in 15 min including prep time. Don't forget to order a good roof sealant!
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
How are you guys wiring the panel in? Do you still a hole or keep the wires outside direct to the battery or where does all the rest of the stuff go? Need to figure out the solar stuff as I would like to install a single panel on mine. I have one of those little ones that Is 5w and it keeps one of the batteries topped off if not in use but won't charge, just kind of my tender while it sits and even then the little bit of draw from the camper still pulls it down a little bit.
Yeah the 5w ones will only trickle charge a battery but are not enough for a deep cycle battery to be repleted.
I did 5 install (2 of mine and helped 3 friends) and, Except if you have a pop up camper, the easiest way down from the roof is through the fridge vent. Installing the panel on the roof is the easy part, deciding where to run the wire and actually running them can be a frustrating job....
Each time, I choose to bypass the electrical panel in the camper and directly feed the battery. It is more wire, but at the end if is easier to add a shut off switch for the panel if you decide to do so, and less complexity.
So basically my schema look like this: Panel, wire to charge controller running from the roof, through the fridge vent, Charge controller installed somewhere near the fridge, but not too visible BECAUSE THEY PUT SOME BRIGHT FRAKING LED LIGHT ON THEM AND THEY CAN FLASH IN YOUR FACE ALL NIGHT! Run another set of wire from the controller directly to the battery (for these, I usually go down, through the floor and under the frame). Add a shut off switch (could be any kind of car switch) just before the battery.
Your next question will be: "why do i need a shut off switch?" I personally remove my battery in winter, and I prefer to have my battery connector inert when there is no need to recharge anything.
Please note / disclaimer: This will work fine for a less than 10 amp install. Over 10 amp, you will most likely need beefier parts and/or will need to connect your panel to your camper electrical panel.
Finally: Installing panel on a brand new pop up camper was a mess and I will never do it again.... 1- the roof was not flat: we had to use 2 different size of z braket to create a angle for the panel so that it would not shake at moderate highway speed. 2- had to drill a hole through the roof to pass the wires (voiding the warranty) 3- what do you do with wires on a pop up roof? That look tacky, until a few week later, when my friend found and ordered some telephone cord look alike electrical wire (he pay a SHITLOAD of money for these).
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
Not through the roof. Short Stainless Steel screw through the upper plywood layer of the roof. (For my 2 install, the roof was a "sandwich" of plywood and foam covered by a "rubber" layer).
One tip I learned: Mount your z bracket on your panel, position the panel on the roof (not too close to an ac unit or anything that can create some shade), mark with a sharpie where your bracket are / touch the roof, remove panel with bracket and where the marks are, make a large cone shape with roof sealant. Set the panel's bracket in the middle of the sealant. screw the bracket to the roof. This should not only act as a weather seal, but also act as an adhesive to keep your bracket stuck on the roof.
One more thing: Do NOT use cheap silicon, get a real RV roof sealant. Silicon is NOT UV resistant.
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
Well we went to Moab over the weekend and took the camper. We stayed in an RV park which was nice for the first trip. Made me realize how fast the tanks fill up (more so the grey). No big deal with hook ups but will definitely have to watch it while dry camping. It was very nice having a camper to come back to after a day of ATVing. Also made a list of stuff we wish we had or wanted to add before the next trip.
Yep the grey tank will fill fast if you do not adjust your water usage in a camper.
Basic rules when we go dry camping:
* brush your teeth without running the water in the sink
* run the shower to get yourself wet, then to rinse.
* want an extra shower? Use the exterior shower on the camper with the eco friendly soap
* use some paper plates, paper cups, aluminum trays and only wash the utensil. Dish washing is water intensive. You can start a fire with paper plates (check the label first to see what they are made of), and the rest you pack out.
Finally, I used to have a grey water tote (http://www.adventurerv.net/thetford-...on-p-8946.html). this was convenient, but required a lot of storage room either on board or in the tow vehicle.
"The French soldiers are grand. They are grand. There is no other word to express it."
- Arthur Conan Doyle, A visit to three fronts (1916)
^Yup. All good rules there. My wife is a life time camper girl but we didn't really pay attention since we had hook ups. It was a good trial run. I'd like to add some solar next even though I have a generator. Be nice to not have to run that out in the woods.
Oh and the Duramax hauled it like a champ. 13 mpg on the way out, 11.5 on the way back. 65-70 mph up the backside of Vail pass, no problem. I just need a bigger tank so I don't have to fuel up so much.
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