Jeep battery or alternator dead?

[Ah Pook]

Are Optimas as good as they used to be?

I would not put a current model Optima in my vehicle. They used to be good but quality has suffered. Bought one in '98 and it lasted 10 years.

I've been happy with Interstate batteries.

[rockhound]

running optima yellow tops for years, no issues at all, i have had a red top fail in the past. the red top is no different than a regualr battery, run it dead a few times and it will not take a charge, the yellow tops are a deep cycle, not affected by running dead.

running in the boat and the trucks,

[newracer]

Optimas are not what they used to be. All the cool off roaders are now using DieHard Platinum batteries.

[Graves]

Optimas are not what they used to be. All the cool off roaders are now using DieHard Platinum batteries.

Any real basis for this statement?

[Duman]

I've had good experience with Optima, both red and yellow. I wasn't aware of any quality issues. I'll use the Google to check it out.

My second choice for batteries is AC-Delco.

[68Charger]

Turn on the motor and let it run. Take the negative off the battery, if it stays running, the alternator is working. If it dies then bad alternator.

I'll repeat it again:

With modern electronics, this is a bad idea... worked fine on older vehicles, but especially if there's a problem with your charging system (shorted diodes, etc), then you could fry the computer, etc... the battery acts like a giant capacitor, absorbing voltage spikes, and limiting the overall voltage. Without it in the system (even a bad battery), you could have voltage spikes that destroy electronics.

don't believe me? then ask this guy: http://www.w8ji.com/battery_and_charging_system.htm

I provided a source- but I'm an electronics engineer, I should know something about this subject...

For the record, I'd do this on my (wait for it... ) '68 Charger
or even my '98 Ram 2500 Cummins (12V)
but no way on my 2007 Charger, or even my '97 Suburban

come on, this is the 21st century... even THIS $5.99 meter would do: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html
if you're not willing to spend 6 lousy male deer on a meter to really see what's going on, then take it to a shop before you do more damage... and don't give suggestions to people how to ruin their electronics...

For the Record, I'd at least upgrade to the $22 meter at HF- that one is at least a copy of a Fluke meter.

[rockhound]

You dont even have to disconnect the battery, if your alternator is bad it won't take long for the voltage to start dropping while running

[Ah Pook]

I'll repeat it again:



I provided a source- but I'm an electronics engineer, I should know something about this subject...

For the record, I'd do this on my (wait for it... ) '68 Charger
or even my '98 Ram 2500 Cummins (12V)
but no way on my 2007 Charger, or even my '97 Suburban

come on, this is the 21st century... even THIS $5.99 meter would do: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html
if you're not willing to spend 6 lousy male deer on a meter to really see what's going on, then take it to a shop before you do more damage... and don't give suggestions to people how to ruin their electronics...

For the Record, I'd at least upgrade to the $22 meter at HF- that one is at least a copy of a Fluke meter.

The old ways are best.

HF has $3.00 multi-meters that last fairly well. I just toss it in the tool box or glove box and leave the good one in the shop.

I'm waiting for GG to post up a status before I waste all the time typing three more sentences on what to use the MM for.

Inquiring minds want to know.

[jerrymrc]

I'll repeat it again:



I provided a source- but I'm an electronics engineer, I should know something about this subject...

For the record, I'd do this on my (wait for it... ) '68 Charger
or even my '98 Ram 2500 Cummins (12V)
but no way on my 2007 Charger, or even my '97 Suburban

come on, this is the 21st century... even THIS $5.99 meter would do: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html
if you're not willing to spend 6 lousy male deer on a meter to really see what's going on, then take it to a shop before you do more damage... and don't give suggestions to people how to ruin their electronics...

For the Record, I'd at least upgrade to the $22 meter at HF- that one is at least a copy of a Fluke meter.

I will agree. Pulling the cable on older cars was easy. Just like pulling the cable and inserting a light to see if something was draining a battery. Now days current is always being drawn. I have a 27FM and an 88 Fluke but also have a few cheap ones. A $9 meter in the camper was better than nothing when ya need it. The one above is what I throw in the car tool kit for trips. Not real accurate but it works.

And a 98 12V 5 speed does not need batteries/alternator as long as the fuel stop solenoid is bypassed. You will not have anything electrical including the dash but it will keep running as long as there is fuel in the tank.

[GilpinGuy]

I figured I ruined the cheap ass battery I had in there by running it stone cold dead a few weeks ago. I know I've done it once or twice before since I bought it a few years ago. The new battery has been in a few days now - no problems at all.

Thanks for the help guys!