2004 Tahoe - sticking rear caliper

[Irving]

My garage never gets below about 60 degrees...

[Brian]

After spending the evening trying to compare semi-metallic to ceramic last night, I think I'm going to stick it right along with other good discussions like beans/no beans and 9mm/45acp

[Great-Kazoo]

After spending the evening trying to compare semi-metallic to ceramic last night, I think I'm going to stick it right along with other good discussions like beans/no beans and 9mm/45acp

you don't like beans in your 45, Can i borrow your chainsaw ?

[Brian]

I just want to add that AAP has stupid (awesome) generous coupon codes. How the heck do they make money? Markup must be pretty darn good on (chinese probably) parts.

Rotor + Loaded Caliper Left
$60 + $41 = $101 (minus $40 coupon) = $61 for both (free rotors?)

Rotor + Loaded Caliper Right
$60 + $41 = $101 (minus $40 coupon) = $61 for both

Bunch of other junk I bought (including a couple pairs of cheaper-than-usual mechanix gloves to replace the last ones I melted with my suppressor).
$80 - $20 = $60

The checkout guy complimented me on my skill with using their coupons. LOL.

[Lurch]

If you need a garage let me know I have a nice insulated one plus most all the tools you should need. Just did the brakes on my Fud.

[SouthPaw]

If you are replacing both calipers (you should) and rotors, might as well spend the few bucks on new pads as well. Just my .02. We always replaced calipers in pairs, rotots and pads on a need to replace bases.

[Brian]

Yep I picked up pads too, but got them elsewhere (amazon).

Thx Lurch - if it stays like it was today, I'll be good. I don't mind being a bit chilly - but last week was more than I'd want to sit through in the garage...

[trlcavscout]

Grease the pins and sand the rotors. No beans in the 45, and kazoo has a chainsaw to loan.

[Brian]

All done, wasn't bad at all. The only annoying part was trying to get the old brass washers off the brake line, while brake fluid was dripping all over the place. No clue how they were supposed to come off but I ended up chopping them off with a pair of snips so I could put the new ones on. Got the little guy to play with the pedal for me so we could bleed the lines - brakes are great now.

The e-brake is now weak and goes all the way to the floor before it bites, so I'll need to fix that this weekend, but it's soooo smooth compared to where I was. I don't know what the brake shop guy was talking about when he told me my pads were fine. The inside rear pad on the right was grinding well into the metal, and the inside pad on the left was about 99% gone too.

Thx for the feedback - saved at least $400-500ish in the end for what was a pretty easy job.

[Erni]

Congrats. Now you have $400 for ammo. Can you tell me how many miles you have on the truck? My burb is getting up on the miles and it might need new pads.