Welcome to the Colorado AR-15 Shooters Club Discussion Forums.
I guess it's not OK to run CFL in a bare porcelain ceiling (basement) fixture?Originally Posted by Brian
Junk (and junk science) IMHO.
I'm going to jump into LED's soon, probably go with anything that works with Wink as my Chamberlain door opener gateway already does.
My Feedback
Credit TFOGGER : Liberals only want things to be "fair and just" if it benefits them.
Credit Zundfolge: The left only supports two "rights"; Buggery and Infanticide.
Credit roberth: List of things Government does best; 1. Steal your money 2. Steal your time 3. Waste the money they stole from you. 4. Waste your time making you ask permission for things you have a natural right to own. "Anyone that thinks the communists won't turn off your power for being on COAR15 is a fucking moron."
I did not replace the can just put in the LED bulb. The ceiling in my living room and kitchen where the can lights are is a little over 18' and I do not have a ladder tall enough to reach.
I put these over the living room area.
And these over the kitchen.
Yeah I'm no expert, and am not sure what to make if of it either. I don't suppose a bare fixture would be an issue either way - it sounded like it was the recessed can that was a potential problem. While incandescent bulbs are built to handle the heat of being enclosed in a can fixture, the LEDs don't like it as much, and the all-in-one retrofit fixtures account for this somehow.
I actually picked up a 4 pack of bare LED bulbs too, and will probably put them in one area and see how they compare from a longevity standpoint after a couple years (hopefully at least a couple years...)
FFL 07/02
Feedback: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/106039-Brian
bare porcelain ceiling fixtures I thought were illegal in today's world. The issue of not having a covered bulb, catching things on fire.
Code nearly got me on that too, closets can lighting should also have a dome/cover on them. Like for a shower fixture. It prevents items in the closet from touching the bulbs and starting fires. They let me slide because I have CFL's in them.
Most of the warranties on CFL and LED require the bulbs be installed Base Down like in a table lamp. If any other direction or location, warranty is moot.
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
For the record, I have a little flicker using Insteon dimmers on my Costco cans. Sounds like it might be related to the TED5000 (whole house energy monitor) or the Lutron dimmers I have installed upstairs, or maybe just lack of testing - I sent an email to the LED manufacturer asking about home automation dimmers. Will probably replace them and see if it goes away, since I really want my automation. Strangely, the dimmers also seem to have dimmed the max brightness too - though that might still be a setting I haven't figured out yet.
FFL 07/02
Feedback: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/106039-Brian
Has anyone found a decent chandelier/candelabra light that has high wife-approval? I bought several of these to replace the lights over our kitchen table, but she absolutely hates them because of the white lower heatsink base. The old incandescent ones were glass all the way through. These would not look so bad if they were hanging upside down, but in our fixture they hang right-side-up and the solid white section looks funny.
Found this one on amazon, that appears to have an LED filament, which is an interesting idea:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJ0VILK?psc=1
Similar model - discussion doesn't seem positive
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...eat-Brightness
Last edited by Brian; 04-21-2015 at 13:37.
FFL 07/02
Feedback: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/106039-Brian
paint the base silver?
Sorry, no help. I do know these types don't always fit into the same fixtures. My ceiling fan has similar and the LED versions are too long.
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
Deleted
Last edited by Danimal; 02-27-2016 at 10:37.
A house I did back in 2004 just traded hands. I originally installed a Vantage Q-Link system with RF dimmers. The electricians for the new homeowners went and swapped out a ton of the Halogen MR16 fixtures with the Costco retrofit LED lights. For the most part they dim well. The bad part is that they are horribly bright and give off the same color temperature as early fluorescent fixtures. The old fixtures were spot type fixtures so the light was directed while the new LED fixtures just flood the room. The house (which originally had a lighting designer layout the fixtures and locations) went from a warm and inviting feel to harsh and cold. The new homeowners hate them and are ripping them out. With a recommendation from another lighting designer I know we are going to put the halogen fixtures back in and use some SORAA 2700k 10 degree and 25 degree LED bulbs. I am told the 9watt bulbs will be about as bright as the old halogen 50watt bulbs. They are supposed to be pretty close in color temperature to the halogens and they will also give the same spot/directed light that the old bulbs had.
http://www.soraa.com/products/MR16-GU5.3
They are not cheap though.
FWIW, current model costco retrofit lights are 2700k, which are "warm" lights. I think the older FEIT retrofits were cooler...? They are definitely SUPER bright without a dimmer - the equivalent of a 120w incandescent. We love that in the kitchen, but have added some dimmers in other areas for evening hours. Most LEDs I've seen do "look" different though, including these. I'm not sure if they look cooler than they are, or something else - I read something once that it had something to do with the color rendering index (CRI) of LEDs... some of the reviews on Amazon mention this.
These are the lights Colorado costcos have in the stores today. I think you can order other models off the website, but they do not always have the automatic rebates applied like those in store do.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M08UWPI
These are the lamp lights costco has, also with the automatic rebates:
http://www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric-.../dp/B00O75K6AS
When I have a minute, I'll try to scribble down a little bit about our setup. Right now there are a ton of things moving in the home automation world, with many competing standards fighting, and Apple/Amazon throwing into the mix. Assuming you want to start with something flexible, I'd probably look at vera or smartthings first, but there are other good options. I'd try to find something that's compatible with an open standard (like zwave or other) if not based on it. Our system controls lights, locks, heater/AC, security system, some switches to shut off stuff the kids forget, garage doors, etc. though I still have backups on some things (like locks) and we don't have it setup in every room. But with kids, it is great for things like "oops, it's 7pm and the kids left the garage door open, would you like the system to close it?"
For LED dimmers though, there's still a long ways to go. You really need to look at the LED manufacturer's website to see what dimmers they have tested with and vice versa. Hard enough before you throw in there that you want the dimmer to be home-automated based, let alone one compatible with your system. Again though, going with something open like zwave probably gives you the greatest chance to find an easier match that will work with both your lights and your home automation system.
Last edited by Brian; 04-27-2015 at 09:55.
FFL 07/02
Feedback: https://www.ar-15.co/threads/106039-Brian
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
