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  1. #6
    Does Dishes - In the Buff
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    When you say you can't get it into reverse or sometimes 4th are you grinding gears or it just won't go? Have you tried double clutching?
    What I'm hearing/reading is you may have syncro problems.

    Quote Originally Posted by TFOGGER View Post
    Adjust for approx 3/4 to 1 inch free play at the pedal(low effort travel before the throwout fork pushes the throwout bearing into solid contact with the pressure plate). This translates into about .080-.125 clearance between the bearing and the pressure plate, so you don't burn up the bearing going down the road.
    Great explanation of how to adjust a clutch.

    Quote Originally Posted by BPTactical View Post
    You have to check the condition of the entire linkage. Frequently (and on a older vehicle) the holes in the Z bar and pedal are wallowed out and the pushrods are worn accordingly. If they are there is no amount of adjustment will ever get you a decent clutch.
    In the past I have welded up the rods, made them round again and welded up the holes and re drilled them.
    But there is a better way.....forget welding up the rods, cut and thread them and replace the bent and worn ends with Heim joints, also known as spherical rod ends.
    You get a butter smooth pedal that will last forever. Not overly expensive either and I just happen to know somebody real close to you that can handle it.
    Forget what the pedal says as far as free play, what is most critical is the clearance on the throwout bearing relative to the clutch fingers/diaphragm spring as alluded to in an earlier post. .040 is what you want to shoot for, typically 2 turns on a coarse thread and 4 or so if the rod is a fine thread. Snug the adjustment rod down until you feel the bearing contact the fingers then back it off until you get the clearance needed.
    Of course all of the above are useless if the bearing retainer on the front of the transmission is grooved and worn.




    Edit- sorry, I missed that SSB had the linkage wear covered.
    For years I did the weld/re-cut thing until I was working on a tractor and saw Hiems being used. Once I saw the light there was no turning back.


    Edit: Could also have worn shifting forks.
    Last edited by Buff; 06-16-2015 at 07:05.

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