Thanks for all the info.

The Kawasaki KLR650 keeps popping up but as others have said, they are ugly. The Suzuki DR650 and Honda XR650 seem to fit the bill also. I have a friend with a BMW Dakar and he loves it. He also does most all of his own repairs.

When I said I wasn't interested in dirt bikes, I was referring bikes that were not street legal.

I'd like to be able to throw the bike on a trailer hitch carrier, so weight does play a factor.