Hotchef, I want to personally thank you for this thread. I plan to use it to show my wife if we are ever in danger of actually getting a pool like she is always talking about.
Hotchef, I want to personally thank you for this thread. I plan to use it to show my wife if we are ever in danger of actually getting a pool like she is always talking about.
"There are no finger prints under water."
This is is the easiest part of owning a pool. I couldn't live here without it but my god, every day it's something. Some days it's chemicals, every day it's cleaning, then there's filter maintenance, electrical maintenance, upkeep on the motors, then you toss in a heater, a fence surrounding it and the salt generator. It never stops needing attention. I will say that my 2 yr old absolutely loves it and goes in daily. If we didn't have one at the house we'd probably never go to the pool due to having a 5 month old as well. It just keeps me busy as hell and electrical is a night,are for me. I've figured everything else out so far. I can't fix what I can't see though, I've never gotten along with electricity.
Wulf, I'm thinking about adding the red to the nut to the left. Theory is that he took it off that bundle so that if I threw the switch I would trip the gfi and take out all the outlets on the patio every time. Maybe I'm nuts. What do you think?
Also, if this works and the light comes on the next step is to install back in the niche. I would do that with the power off just to be safe. Then power back on, turn on the light. How the hell do I make sure the water isn't electrified ? Or would the gfi pop if there was water present in the circuit?
Connect red to black and put the white in with the other whites. Youll have the spare yellow wire nut the pool guy put in. Fire it up just long enough to check the light. If the pool light is out of the water it will cook the gasket
The gfci will trip the instant the power is on and water hits hot wires. That's why its there. It might tingle for a half second at worst. Not much of a safety concern.
This. Picture sums it up perfectly. Red is your switch leg coming from the switch box. Was capped to prevent shorting. The center conduit, I assume, is going to the light. Those two wires should have been capped individually.
Before you do anything, you could verify this all, by hooking up the switch. In the on position, you should be able to read 120V on the red wire in this new jbox. Once you are sure that power is reaching this part, then you could proceed to put everything together. Hooking the red to the black on the center conduit and tying the common in with the other commons should get power to the light.
No sweat. Let us know in "an hours"![]()
I have seen the light!!!!! Putting it all back together right now. Thanks a ton guys.