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  1. #61
    Buys guns while sleeping
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    Quote Originally Posted by thvigil11 View Post
    Wouldn't be the first time a junk switch caused problems. For starters, your black probe should go to ground and the red should be used to check for voltage. Having voltage on the fixture side (the red wire goes to the light, I assume) means either you are getting something coming through the switch. (bad points, crud, random crap) or you are getting some voltage coming from the neutral side (white wires), or third option, you are getting some sort of stray voltage from another source (another unknown short). Start with pulling the wires off of the switch and remeasuring each side. If you get 120 on the hot and 0 on the fixture side, then its the switch. If you are still getting 36v on the fixture side, you have one of the other problems.
    Unhooked the light. Still showing 36v on the fixture screw.

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdranchman View Post
    It is still a 3 day old bad switch. The circuit should be OPEN and you would get no voltage on the terminal you are testing. Have you removed the light(s) from the socket(s) before testing?

    Light is removed

  3. #63
    Machine Gunner thvigil11's Avatar
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    Is it 36V with the light removed and wired removed from switch?

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by thvigil11 View Post
    Is it 36V with the light removed and wired removed from switch?
    Yes

  5. #65
    Machine Gunner thvigil11's Avatar
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    And 36V at the light? Then it would appear as if you have some sort of stray voltage coming into the system. Possible short in the wiring in between the box and the light. If that conduit runs underground all the way to the pool light, then it might be possible to fish new wires through. If the conduit stops underground and the wires transition to direct burial or something, then you might be having a bad day. What's the distance between the box and the pool light? Any guess on how many angles might be in the conduit? If a short run, you might be able to pull new wires yourself. Longer run or more complex of a system, then it might be time to call a pro.

  6. #66
    Machine Gunner thvigil11's Avatar
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    Just to verify. Bare wire at the light and bare wire at the switch (the Red wire) (not hooked to any switch or socket) both read 36V? Incoming voltage (hot) at the bottom of the switched is 120? Hot hooked up to switch, nothing hooked up on top terminal, is it 0 in off position and 120V in on position?

  7. #67
    Grand Master Know It All newracer's Avatar
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    Any voltage between neutral and the ground leads?

  8. #68
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    Pretty sure I checked the light and it was showing 0. I'll go back out in a bit and see if I can find another box in the landscaping closer to where the light is. It's probably 20 ft from this box and as far as I know it's all under the concrete deck. I could possibly fish new wires through but that requires purchasing a new light assembly since its a sealed unit(last resort).

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by newracer View Post
    Any voltage between neutral and the ground leads?
    ill check this later, have to pick up the kiddos and get dinner started.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by thvigil11 View Post
    Just to verify. Bare wire at the light and bare wire at the switch (the Red wire) (not hooked to any switch or socket) both read 36V? Incoming voltage (hot) at the bottom of the switched is 120? Hot hooked up to switch, nothing hooked up on top terminal, is it 0 in off position and 120V in on position?
    No no bare wire at socket available. It's a pool light(sealed).

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