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Rotated the wires on the cap in case #1 was not front cylinder. Ether. New rotor 2x. Re verified ground points. Moved dist a tooth. Moved dist 180. Called it dirty names. Ohmed wires. Checked continuity thru the cap.
Does it have gas?
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The only way you have spark from the coil, but not coming out of the distributor is if there is a short inside the cap somewhere, or the contact button on the cap is not making contact with the metal conductor on the rotor. If coil polarity was wrong, you might have weak spark(hot wire to the + side of the coil, point wire to the - side is the norm), if the condenser was shorted, you wouldn't have spark at the coil wire.An open condenser would show heavy sparking and burning at the points, combined with low spark energy. In my days as a car mechanic, I found that pretty much anything would run on a point gap of .017 inch(fully open). I assume since Wulf tried moving the distributor 1 tooth, that you have verified that the distributor is actually turning. To verify, the distributor should be timed to fire about 6-10 degrees before top dead center on the Compression(not Exhaust) stroke (both valves closed).
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you have pulled all 3 plugs and grounded them and cranked it over?
think it might be flooded with all the cranking?
You sir, are a specialist in the art of discovering a welcoming outcome of a particular situation....not a mechanic.
My feedback add 11-12 ish before the great servpocaylpse of 2012
Just a thought: Most point systems run a resistance of some kind between the switch and the positive side of the coil to extend the life of the points. Have you checked voltage at the positive side of the coil? you should have pretty close to battery voltage when cold, dropping to about 9 volts when running. You might try hot wiring straight from the battery to the positive side of the coil to boost spark energy, at least to try to get it started. If the ballast wire/resistor is bad, your voltage at the coil wire might not be enough to jump the gap between the tip of the rotor and the contacts in the cap.
Light a fire for a man, and he'll be warm for a day, light a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life...
Discussion is an exchange of intelligence. Argument is an exchange of
ignorance. Ever found a liberal that you can have a discussion with?
Just saw this thread and came here to post thisOriginally Posted by TFOGGER
Just a thought, did you put the rotor on before putting the cap back on ? And did you make sure that the rotor is turning when cranked ?
If you are not getting spark at the plugs, did you check for spark at the coil HV wire going into the distributor ?
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That is known as a ballast resistor.
My T.P. wheeling and dealing feedback is here.
Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one, and it stinks more than mine.
Yo Homie, That my chainsaw ?
Pati, improbe et vince
My T.P. wheeling and dealing feedback is here.
Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one, and it stinks more than mine.
Yo Homie, That my chainsaw ?
Pati, improbe et vince
Some systems use a resistive wire to the coil for power when the switch is in the run position, instead of an actual ballast resistor
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