I need a recommendation for a Mobile Mechanic Northern Colorado willing to travel to My location.

[Great-Kazoo]

If it is in the run position can you push start it?

His tractor ?

[Great-Kazoo]

Yes the ballast resistor is a major part of the ignition system. BUT....................One that can be bypassed for initial starting.

[thedave1164]

Ballast/resistive wire explained:
Some older coils were not really 12volt so when the industry changed over to 12 volt systems they decided to add resistance to the run circuit to drop the voltage to the coil. While you are in the start position, you will drop the voltage enough to not cause damage to the coil. Once it is in the run position it will have the artificial voltage drop from the ballast/resistive wire.

I would suggest an inline spark tester, it will allow you to better see what is going on.

Also, how fresh is the battery? A weak battery could be an issue in this cold.

One other thing, run a hot wire directly from the battery to the coil and try to start, this will eliminate the start/run switch circuit.

[HBARleatherneck]

PROBLEM SOLVED, TRACTOR RUNS!!!
WOO HOO!


I honestly didnt think anything was wrong electrically although most of you went that way in your diagnosis. This tractor ran just a few days ago. Nothing changed other than the distributor. I did replace the coil, battery, plugs, wires, points, condesner, cap, rotor but I also tried all the old parts except the ruined distributor.
Well do you want to know what the problem was??

The points were opening between plug towers. So how do you fix that? I unscrewed the distributor bottom plate and roated the body of the distributor 180 degrees and put it back together. Installed the distributor and it instantly fired up and ran. Al that work in the cold, for nothing. I figured it out on the kitchen table, I had some help from a tractor forum I had to join today. They didnt solve the problem, but they explained that the point should just start to open when it hits the plug towers, not be fully opened, which is what I thought. then I was able to figure out the problem.

Thank you for all your suggestions.

But,
Especially thank you to Wulf202 who drove all the way out to my house on icy, snow covered roads in the dark. Then stayed outside in freezing temperatures for 5 plus hours in the dark while we were being snowed on to help me. Thank you so much.

[SideShow Bob]

The points were opening between plug towers. So how do you fix that? I unscrewed the distributor bottom plate and roated the body of the distributor 180 degrees and put it back together.

This is a given, for basic motor repair, especially needing checked when replacing a distributor to make sure it's not install backward So to speak.

With all the help you had and all the late nights out in the cold, I figured that it was already checked, or I would have mentioned it.

Guess we we all have our DOH.... moments.

[TFOGGER]

Glad you got it solved! It's something that most guys wouldn't think about, because most guys never had to deal with points (we're a dying breed).

[Great-Kazoo]

Glad you got it solved! It's something that most guys wouldn't think about, because most guys never had to deal with points (we're a dying breed).

Hand some one a Tach & dwell meter, timing light and watch their eyes glaze over. Then ask them to hand you that distributor wrench.

[TFOGGER]

Hand some one a Tach & dwell meter, timing light and watch their eyes glaze over. Then ask them to hand you that distributor wrench.

Got all 3 in my tool box, except my distributor wrench is double ended 1/2 & 9/16 so it fits Ford AND Chevy...

[Great-Kazoo]

Got all 3 in my tool box, except my distributor wrench is double ended 1/2 & 9/16 so it fits Ford AND Chevy...

Of course the mopar offset is on hand. Bet you have the brass feeler gauges for gaping old /1st gen electronic ignition.
Even real troubleshooting, not this replace till fixed stuff is a dying breed.

[Wulf202]

Glad you got it done.

It was more like 4 hours...