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  1. #11
    High Power Shooter Firehaus's Avatar
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    Tile the floor area under the tank coming out a little around for aesthetics. You could also put in a vent fan to the outside behind the tank to help ventilate. Or a dehumidifier hooked to a drain.

    I've always been told by structural engineers that you use the sq/ft load of a refrigerator for a comparison to your tank/hottub. If your fridge isn't sagging your floor neither will the tank if it's the same or less per sq/ft load.


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  2. #12
    Machine Gunner
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideShow Bob View Post
    The foil on the foam board is a vapor/moisture barrier, slightly bevel the edges of the foam board so the foil side is larger and to the room side.
    Unless you are running the tanker so hot that you are boiling the fish, or have a humidifier in your duct work, the dry air in CO. Should suck up most of the moisture put out by evaporation from the tank. And of course spacing the tank away from the wall.
    Thanks for the last bit. When talking with fish folk online I forgot that when they freak out more, in forgetting many are in CA/Florida/ other non desert states. Makes sense to me.

  3. #13
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    I think I'll take some mushed board to replace if it's ever removed. I thought I'd the tile, think it would be hard to match the room and not cost a bundle to have done since it's outside my skill I imagine.

    I think with the foamboard plan is mostly covered. As far as that and finding some space from walls. Need to get apvc mockup and finish getting lizards sold and I think this huge office desk removed.

    Guess stand design is answered since I'll have builder mimic the pictures tank I think. He said 1.75 square he normally uses, unsure if I'll need him to go bigger. I r no rocket wizard.

  4. #14
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    PS it's nice to get more fed back here than on the actual national reef tank forum.

  5. #15
    High Power Shooter Firehaus's Avatar
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    Default A few structural/humidity questions

    The problem with moving farther from the wall depends on the supports under it. If it's a structural wall it's best to stay close to it.

    Colorado is dry, but dry enough to suck up all the moisture of a big tank, or a clothes dryer venting into a 1300sq/ft apartment. Plan accordingly to be safe.

    Paint the wall behind the tank with gloss paint so it's easier to wipe down. Also, really consider the tile floor, maybe even a floor drain in it just in case. Nothing worse than overflowing in your living room.

    What lizards are you selling?


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  6. #16
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    What about the very thick rubber flooring that is used in gyms? Those surely hold thousands of pounds of weight under the machines and don't get torn up like the cheap stuff.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  7. #17
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    If they are too thick though I imagine you would introduce a tiny amount of wobble and any flexing with this kind of tank is bad.

    @firehouse not sure if you recall, actually bought coral from ya when you were closing the biz down. Seeling an ackie monitor and argentine black and white tegu. Probably my cresteds too.

  8. #18
    High Power Shooter Firehaus's Avatar
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    Default A few structural/humidity questions

    Quote Originally Posted by fitz19d View Post
    If they are too thick though I imagine you would introduce a tiny amount of wobble and any flexing with this kind of tank is bad.

    @firehouse not sure if you recall, actually bought coral from ya when you were closing the biz down. Seeling an ackie monitor and argentine black and white tegu. Probably my cresteds too.
    I remember. I used to have a big 40"x50"x14" open top tank. I don't think you ever saw it. Lots of humidity, even with 12' ceilings. I miss the tank, don't miss the maintenance.

    My kids are into cresteds, have anything premium?


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  9. #19
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    Let me pm you later when I can find sale add and pics of 2i didn't have listed.

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