The crimp pliers would be the same ones used for doing sprinkler system pipes, but what you've got/made is perfect in my opinion.
here is one at home depot. poly pipe crimp
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-Po...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
The crimp pliers would be the same ones used for doing sprinkler system pipes, but what you've got/made is perfect in my opinion.
here is one at home depot. poly pipe crimp
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-Po...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
Sometimes people trip and fall down stairs.
Sometimes assholes push people down stairs.
That doesn't mean "stairs are bad" nor does it make someone who pushes someone down the stairs any less of an asshole.
Yeah that's it. Since I put the axle back into the vehicle before I crimped, it turned out to be beneficial for me to use the tiny version that I had made.
What was the cost / time / effort of the boots vs. buying reman axles?
Reman axles are only $57, new are $75. Boots can be had for around $10- $12 each, but I'm under the impression that those are cheap in price and quality. I got boots from Napa that feel more thick than factory for $27-$33 each. So boots cost me just over $100, and axles would have been the same. The difference is mostly just the mess of dealing with all the grease and the time to clean and repack everything. Half of this project (and most of the projects I start) are just to learn how, so I'm not too upset about the extra effort. In the future, just buying a reman will be the way too go.
**I made a point to spring for better boots because they'll be under more stress at the new driveline angle, also, for some reason I thought I could leave the axle installed and slip the boots on and off.
At another stopping point. The old torsion bars seem to be welded into the keys. I was able to easily knock off the control arm collars, but the keys are not moving a bit. They are going to soak all night in PB blaster and I'll see if anything changes in the morning. Right now the plan is to take them some where that can press them off for me. My trusted mechanic is unavailable right now, so I'll have to look around and find someone who can do what I need and hopefully not charge me a ton of money. After that, it's just six bolts and some adjusting.
Does anyone have a good source for where I can order parts to build my own quick disconnect sway bar links? EDIT: I need to order a couple of Heim joints.
EDIT 2: Looks like this site sells exactly what I need. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=22569081
Now I need to figure out if I just want to use a piece of all thread (probably not) or find some studs that I can have welded together.
One guy I saw actually cut his front sway bar in half, then welded tubes on either side, and put a pin in a collar to hold the two sides together. When he goes to wheel, he just pulls that one center pin and the sway bar just twists independently on each side. Very cool, but I don't think I can hot link the photos onto this thread so you can see what I'm talking about.
Last edited by Irving; 11-12-2016 at 22:56.
If you need someone to press the keys off let me know. I have access to a couple of presses.
Unfortunately, I'll be out of pocket until after next weekend.
I was hoping to have it drivable by this weekend, but it's not looking like it so far. I'm going to reach out to some other contacts I have and see if I can't get it done sooner. If not, I'll certainly take you up on that offer Ray.
I hadn't even looked at the prices until you asked, then I saw the margin was zero.
Making progress on torsion bars.
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