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  1. #1
    Ammosexual GilpinGuy's Avatar
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    Default New Battery or Alternator (both)?

    Jumped in the truck (2001 F150 5.4l) and it fired right up. While on the gas the battery light was coming on - let off of the gas and it went out. The needle gauge was fine. I drove it for about 6 or 7 miles then the gauge started falling also. By the time I got home, all of the electronics inside were fading or going out altogether. Good thing I was close to home.

    I whipped out my battery/alternator tester. With engine off - low voltage, dead battery. With engine running, low voltage also. I bought this truck in August and the seller said the battery was replaced within the last 18 months, so I'm assuming it's alternator time.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Agree on alternator. When running, it should be showing 13-14+ volts.
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  3. #3
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    Agree on alternator. When running, it should be showing 13-14+ volts.
    Unless the battery has a dead cell drawing down the alternator output, or loose/corroded connection from the alternator to where it connects to charge the battery.

    Jump start the truck and remove the battery + cable and see if it dies. And while it is running see if a wench will stick to the back of the alternator from the magnetic field created by the alternator.
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  4. #4
    Grand Master Know It All newracer's Avatar
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    Could be either or both, easy enough to pull both and haven them tested at an auto parts store.

  5. #5
    Grand Master Know It All newracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideShow Bob View Post
    Unless the battery has a dead cell drawing down the alternator output, or loose/corroded connection from the alternator to where it connects to charge the battery.

    Jump start the truck and remove the battery + cable and see if it dies. And while it is running see if a wench will stick to the back of the alternator from the magnetic field created by the alternator.
    It would be the negative cable not the positive. However this is not good thing to do any longer as it could cause damage to many parts of the electrical system.

  6. #6
    Ammosexual GilpinGuy's Avatar
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    Question about alternators:
    I'm not sure if my alternator is 95 amp or 110 amp. There's only a $10 difference in price. Go with the higher amp to be sure?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by GilpinGuy View Post
    Question about alternators:
    I'm not sure if my alternator is 95 amp or 110 amp. There's only a $10 difference in price. Go with the higher amp to be sure?
    Yes.

  8. #8
    Mr Yamaha brutal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fportmen45 View Post
    Yes.
    Is it a fair assumption that the voltage regulator/regulation circuit in ECU whatever, can manage the increased output?

    In other words, is a typical "tow package" just a larger alternator and a trailer wiring circuit/harness?
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  9. #9
    Grand Master Know It All
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    Replacing the voltage regulator is usually the easy solution. Typically costs 1/4 the cost of a rebuilt one

  10. #10
    If I had a son he would look like....Ben SideShow Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf202 View Post
    Replacing the voltage regulator is usually the easy solution. Typically costs 1/4 the cost of a rebuilt one
    If you are going to take apart the alternator to replace the rectifier/regulator, you might as well replace the brushes & clean up the contact strips. Then you will have a reman alternator.
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