Need a hand with some pretty simple woodworking...

[crays]

Have you checked the flooring section of the lumber yards? You may be able to find a transition board of enough length, and possibly already close on some of the dimensions.

Just a thought. I've ripped the "lip" of some carpet to tile oak transitions for some quick window casing. Pre-finished to boot.

[Delfuego]

Maybe over-kill, but Tim K does absolutely gorgeous woodwork.

Not sure if this would even be worth his time...

Just buy a custom kitchen from him, maybe he will in throw the extra work

[Great-Kazoo]

Not sure if this would even be worth his time...



If the board was wider, I could see that. I need to rip a board to about 2" wide, and again to just over an inch thick. Then I need to miter two edges on more than 10' of essentially a 1"x2" board, with some degree of precision. While I'm sure some folks could do that with a skill saw, I know I can't.

Do the rail in 2 sections, if you're unable to make it in 1 cut. It's definitely a 2 person job.

[BladesNBarrels]

A little off topic, but first time I thought about rub rails on a motor vehicle.
Use them on a boat, but haven't considered using them to rub along the wall getting into the garage.
Cool.

[JohnnyEgo]

If you want to drive up to Windsor, I'd be glad to rip them to width for you.

[To Bear Arms]

You need to build guides to hold the wood against the table and fence with just enough play to allow feed...

A couple straight boards and some clamps might do the trick.

Use a longer straight board against your short fence to extend it as well. The melamine boards work well for that.

Go longer than you need if possible on your cut piece, and you can sacrifice the start/stop ends if they're a little wonky.


[ETA] added (and corrected) melamine. Had guns on the brain when I said melonite. lolz

You can build "feather boards" to help push and keep tension on it while feeding it through the table saw.

[JohnnyEgo]

You really only need the fence to guide the board past the blade. After that, it doesn't do much for you. Feather boards are cheap and great for keeping the board tight up against the fence. Your two issues are going to be material support and the ability of your saw to do the work of ripping a long piece. The direct drive saws such as the small Craftsmans and Dewalts can bog down under a long cut at 2" or more in height, and that is a very dangerous condition, particularly if the blade binds because the cut starts closing at the back of the blade. You can get a little more oomph out of your saw by using a thin-kerf ripping blade and feeding at a slow but consistent rate. Also helps if you have a riving knife or your blade guard in place to prevent the bind.

By way of alternative, I run a 3HP cabinet saw, which has plenty of oomph. I still use a thin kerf ripping blade, because I don't have until next Tuesday to rip a 2x4, and I don't intend to trash out my nice blade doing it. As long as you have a very stable saw, a rip blade, and good material support, you should be able to rip it just fine, albeit slowly. Or you could drive up here one evening or weekend, and I could do them on mine. I rip up 2x4 stock all the time.

[Fentonite]

Wow, nice gear. I may be giving you a shout if I can't figure it out.

[newracer]

I'f I were you I'd look to see if I could fine some HDPE to make them out of.


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[Fentonite]

I'f I were you I'd look to see if I could fine some HDPE to make them out of.


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I had to google HDPE. That would be a very practical choice. Probably smarter than even the metal tube that some guys are fab'ing. For some reason, I've got it in my head to use a nice stain on wood, even though they'll just be going on a mis-matched, spray-painted beast. Beauty is in the eye, I guess.