Local source for an RV dual battery box?

[fairrpe86]

Try Titan RV and Trailer, 303-903-6808. Talk to Matt. See if he has one in stock, if not I bet he would know who does.

[Martinjmpr]

My 2-way fridge is AC/LP. Is yours DC?

Yeah, it's a T@B Clamshell (has the rear kitchen like a teardrop.) T@B makes two basic models, one has the inside kitchen and the other one is outside. The inside kitchen models get a 3 way (120vAC/12vDC/LPG) but because of the way they're vented (through the back), the Clamshell models only get the two way (120vAC/12vDC.)

https://nucamprv.com/



Starting in 2018 the new Clamshells will have a 3 way but I'm not going to spend the $$ to try and get ours retrofitted.

We normally don't even use the fridge in the trailer unless we are hooked up to shore power. I have one of these that I carry in the Suburban:

http://www.truckfridge.com/store/product23.html

Last year I put a 2nd (house) battery in the 'Burb and a dedicated 12v port so the fridge is hooked up to a battery that's not the starter battery. In previous years with the truckfridge I have had a couple of instances where the fridge drew the starter battery down far enough for me to need a jumpstart. With the dual battery setup that's no longer a worry, the fridge draws from the 2nd battery (a deep cycle RV battery.) The RV battery is connected to the starter battery via a solenoid - when the engine is running the two batteries are connected (which charges both batteries - especially since I have a 145a alternator) but once the engine shuts off the solenoid opens and the two batteries are isolated. So even if the house battery goes totally dead, my food might spoil but the truck will still start.

Try Titan RV and Trailer, 303-903-6808. Talk to Matt. See if he has one in stock, if not I bet he would know who does.

Thanks! I'll call him tomorrow!

[brutal]

Yeah, it's a T@B Clamshell (has the rear kitchen like a teardrop.) T@B makes two basic models, one has the inside kitchen and the other one is outside. The inside kitchen models get a 3 way (120vAC/12vDC/LPG) but because of the way they're vented (through the back), the Clamshell models only get the two way (120vAC/12vDC.)

https://nucamprv.com/



Starting in 2018 the new Clamshells will have a 3 way but I'm not going to spend the $$ to try and get ours retrofitted.

We normally don't even use the fridge in the trailer unless we are hooked up to shore power. I have one of these that I carry in the Suburban:

http://www.truckfridge.com/store/product23.html

Last year I put a 2nd (house) battery in the 'Burb and a dedicated 12v port so the fridge is hooked up to a battery that's not the starter battery. In previous years with the truckfridge I have had a couple of instances where the fridge drew the starter battery down far enough for me to need a jumpstart. With the dual battery setup that's no longer a worry, the fridge draws from the 2nd battery (a deep cycle RV battery.) The RV battery is connected to the starter battery via a solenoid - when the engine is running the two batteries are connected (which charges both batteries - especially since I have a 145a alternator) but once the engine shuts off the solenoid opens and the two batteries are isolated. So even if the house battery goes totally dead, my food might spoil but the truck will still start.




Thanks! I'll call him tomorrow!

Understand. I installed a similar setup in my 20' SeaDoo boat so I always have a fresh start battery but it uses a manual battery shutoff/isolation switch (start or combined). Start battery/House battery and auto charge switcher thingy got installed with a customer circuit (diode bridge) due to the twin motors. Works well except the stereo amp that's wired straight to the house battery seems to draw it down a bit even when everything is off. FWIW, I bought a replacement interstate (deep cycle) battery today at costco. I have been thinking about investing in a real deep cycle battery but can't bring myself to pay the outrageous cost.