Water Heater Flooded basement.

[fitz19d]

So wake up to no hot water. Go into basement. Rushing water from the center flue stack or whatever of the hot water heater. Killed the water. Utility room is bare concrete with a drain that doesnt seem to hardly drain for shit, was a little clogged with lint from A/C line I never saw since the pipe obscured.

So In surrounding area I've got some painted walls that are showing bunching/wrinkling of the paint, then the carpet on other side of walls are a swamp. Oh and as I type this I guess I should turn off the gas, though letting it heat whats in there might be nice for one last shower before starting to deal with this shit.



Freak out restoration company or should I just start with wet vac and a carpet shampoo-er to sop up the carpets? Going to shop for a new water heater I guess, will Home depot etc delivery usually offer haul away? Things going to be heavy I'm guessing even if I'm able to drain it?

[kwando]

That blows! Shitty was to start the day. I believe Lowe’s and Home Depot will haul the old unit away if you pay for them to install it.


I’d wet vac as much as possible and get some fans for air flow. Then evaluate the damage.

[fitz19d]

Should I space heater the room for warmth and the fans. Or am I better off despite the cold opening basement windows w/ fans to allow the cold but dry outside air in/out?


Awesome part is I have to report to work in greeley for like 15mins until relief arrives then come back home. Irks me I can get an emergency call and be somewhere with 10 mins prep + travel vs others seem to need like 3 hours to get their asses in gear.

[Irving]

If you're going to make a claim, insurance should pay for mitigation company. Even if you do all the restoration yourself, having it properly dried out and wet materials removed is a big deal and a big help.

[Wulf202]

Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy

[Wulf202]

Forgot to mention pull all baseboard from the effected areas. If you have a free floating slab you can skip cutting holes into the stud cavity. If you pull the baseboard and there's a gap between the slab and the lowest 2x4 you have free floating.

If not every other stud cavity should be ventilated in a saturated wall. There's special equipment for that but I'm not sure what you can actually get a hold of.

[thedave1164]

Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy

Excellent advice from a man of experience.

[buffalobo]

Extract the carpet, rent a rug doctor. Roll it back and trash the pad. Put carpet fans under the carpet so it billows. This will also dry the cement. Rent at least 2 dehumidifiers. Any walls that are completely soaked cut a hole in them low and high and put a carpet fan on the lower hole. Turn the heat up and run your a/c. If you can't do both at once cycle back and forth. If you have vinyl just strip it out, ceramic should be ok.

You can check sheet rock with a moisture sensor which is actually a continuity tester so if you have that setting on a multimeter you can skip buying it.

You have 72 hours from first water before mold sets in to get it completely dry. Don't skip steps, if it seems daunting claim insurance and get a restoration company in today before they get busy

Spot on.


If you're unarmed, you are a victim

[fitz19d]

I also got this advice.

You can actually use the cold outside air to your advantage. If you open the window and pump the room full of the cold dry air, then close the windows and heat the area with a space heater, the cold dry air become even dryer. So you may have to do a few cycles like that to exchange the air, heat it up, then swap it out for fresh air again. Warm air holds more moisture than cold air.


Any good? I have a large window overlooking flooded carpet. Will be getting an extra home Depot fan and dehumidifier but well-versed if that strategy night be good for dinner a good chunk of ambient humidity quick before buttoning up and letting the tools so their work.

[Erni]

I have a shop vac, a floor mounted column shaped space heater that oscilates you can borrow if you want. I'm in Longmont.