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Originally Posted by thedave1164
Lol I guess I don't get it, though going westbound into boulder sucks when one tard makes miles of traffic on the single lane portions.
Removing as much wet material as possible will help as well. For example, the carpet pad is done, so get it all the way out of the basement, and not just in another room. If you can tell that the bottom of your drywall has wicked up enough water to be beyond repair, might as well flood cut the affected area asap. All that is just less and less that you have to dry out in the end.
"There are no finger prints under water."
As Wulf says, time is critical. Our disaster restoration crew is all hands on deck the first 24 hours to get water out and drying started. They keep adding equipment until absolutely sure will be "dry" before 72hrs.
If you're unarmed, you are a victim
If you have filed an insurance claim, they should be doing all of this.
If not, you might still want to. Flue stack failures in water heaters is not uncommon. I have probably done close to 500 of those working for insurance companies. If you did not change the anode rods and the WH is old enough to have required such, the manufacturer will deny responsibility. If the failure is at a weld seam (common) then that is an easier one for your carrier to get some money back, and you might get the deductible back if they prevail. But tossing the old water heater is not a good idea unless you are 100% you won't file a claim directly with the manufacturer or your insurance carrier. No evidence, no claim. If you need help on that side, feel free to ask.
Take Wulf up on his offer, his advice is all spot on.
Any major suggestions re water heaters? Basically looking at like 600/650 ish for a 50 gallon, 40k btu. $50 extra is apparently difference for a 9 vs 12 yeah limited. Looked at some lowes 40g since it's just two of us, but for saving $100 @$500 one of the issues is having filter cleaning or something like that needed.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Pe...40U0/204298980
Or are there other businesses that is going to have better quality for the money. Don't want to jump to a grand for some wifi enabled silliness.
Last edited by fitz19d; 02-28-2018 at 11:40.
https://www.ar-15.co/threads/164786-...t=water+heater
Lessons cost money. Good ones cost lots. -Tony Beets
When you replace the water heater, you might want to replace the water pressure regulator too. If you have a water pressure regulator, that is. If you don't have one, you might want to consider one. Pic below of a typical "pressure regulator". It keeps excess water pressure from damaging your plumbing. Just my 2 pennies...
Pretty sure theres one at the main line into house. Those prone to dying too then? At least in there is next to the real drains.When you replace the water heater, you might want to replace the water pressure regulator too. If you have a water pressure regulator, that is. If you don't have one, you might want to consider one. Pic below of a typical "pressure regulator". It keeps excess water pressure from damaging your plumbing. Just my 2 pennies...
No, they are pretty good for the most part. No idea why he thinks that is a good idea, or where he got the idea to replace anodes annually.
Mine lasted 7 years in this brand new house. Ate right through the housing. Couple years ago, friends water heater T&P kept blowing out water, flooding below the house. Had to change the pressure regulator. Took 20 minutes to do hers. Mine was in the wall. Ridiculous idea. I had to cut the panel out and reroute the plumbing to reinstall a new one. I was lucky it was a pinhole leak and only made a few square yards lightly damp. This just my opinion. BMB out.
Last edited by BushMasterBoy; 03-04-2018 at 13:51.
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