Water Heater Flooded basement.

[Wulf202]

I'm aiming to stick to that as best I can. Just some of these smaller questions pop up from not understanding some of the underlying science etc. I'm not sure you really want to come down to hwy 52 and i25 or not from Greeley. I get off work in Greeley early tommorow at 330 and home at 430 ish.[/QUOTE]
If you want to talk yourself out of free professional consulting be my guest... my offer stands. I need to be in greeley at 6pm and have a motorcycle with temp tags I've only managed 100 miles on so far

* i take no responsibility for the job damages or anything else because lawyers suck.

[fitz19d]

ewwww, Hwy 52 is the debil

Lol I guess I don't get it, though going westbound into boulder sucks when one tard makes miles of traffic on the single lane portions.

[fitz19d]

I'm aiming to stick to that as best I can. Just some of these smaller questions pop up from not understanding some of the underlying science etc. I'm not sure you really want to come down to hwy 52 and i25 or not from Greeley. I get off work in Greeley early tommorow at 330 and home at 430 ish.

If you want to talk yourself out of free professional consulting be my guest... my offer stands. I need to be in greeley at 6pm and have a motorcycle with temp tags I've only managed 100 miles on so far.[/QUOTE]

Oh so you want to come look at my hot vulcan for sale too? ;p

Wife while I was still getting home from work (took forever for relief) called stanley out to come suck up stuff on top of the few hours with the rug doctor. Currently fighting w/ her about pulling carpet all the way and ditching pad vs just a corner and the home depot snail fans. By touch the water is about half the rooms carpet, but I'm sure that water extends out further in the pad.

[MarkCO]

If you have filed an insurance claim, they should be doing all of this.

If not, you might still want to. Flue stack failures in water heaters is not uncommon. I have probably done close to 500 of those working for insurance companies. If you did not change the anode rods and the WH is old enough to have required such, the manufacturer will deny responsibility. If the failure is at a weld seam (common) then that is an easier one for your carrier to get some money back, and you might get the deductible back if they prevail. But tossing the old water heater is not a good idea unless you are 100% you won't file a claim directly with the manufacturer or your insurance carrier. No evidence, no claim. If you need help on that side, feel free to ask.

Take Wulf up on his offer, his advice is all spot on.

[fitz19d]

Any major suggestions re water heaters? Basically looking at like 600/650 ish for a 50 gallon, 40k btu. $50 extra is apparently difference for a 9 vs 12 yeah limited. Looked at some lowes 40g since it's just two of us, but for saving $100 @$500 one of the issues is having filter cleaning or something like that needed.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Pe...40U0/204298980

Or are there other businesses that is going to have better quality for the money. Don't want to jump to a grand for some wifi enabled silliness.

[BushMasterBoy]

When you replace the water heater, you might want to replace the water pressure regulator too. If you have a water pressure regulator, that is. If you don't have one, you might want to consider one. Pic below of a typical "pressure regulator". It keeps excess water pressure from damaging your plumbing. Just my 2 pennies...

[kidicarus13]

Any major suggestions re water heaters? .

https://www.ar-15.co/threads/164786-...t=water+heater

[Erni]

While on the topic of waterheaters. Any recomendation for how often to change the anode? Aluminum or magnesium?

[BushMasterBoy]

I believe the anode changes are an annual thing. Depends on the mineral content of the water. Most questions answered here...

http://www.home-repair-central.com/a...tal-types.html

[MarkCO]

While on the topic of waterheaters. Any recomendation for how often to change the anode? Aluminum or magnesium?

In most places in CO, if you do an annual flush, you should be able to go at least 7 years on an anode. I tell folks to check at 5 and if it is less than half used up, go another 5. As long as you don't have the bare stainless wire the sacrificial material is bonded to, replace it, write the date on the tank with a sharpie and replace at 7. I only recommend Magnesium, which will get used up a little faster than Aluminum, which is likely what comes in the tank originally. If using soft water, might want to check at 5 years.

Annual flush is operating the T&P Relief valve and let about 1 or 2 gallons out, then open the drain at the base fully and let flow for at least 2 gallons, longer if you are still seeing debris. If you did not operate the T&P annually, I don't suggest you start if your WH is older than 2 years, but you should still drain. If the T&P starts to weep, or does not fully re-seat, just replace it.