Bergara bmp

[ChickNorris]

Yeah, about that...

[C Ward]

What is the budget?

[ChickNorris]

Razors seem to be popular. I think I like the gen 2 hd 4.5-27x56 ebr7 mrad. In part because its also at the very edge of the budget & I'm trying to heed the advice of cry/buy once. There's also a few used options that I'm aware of that are good opportunities if I want a different reticle.

[C Ward]

I have both a 3 - 18 and 4 - 27 gen 2's and they are a lot of scope for the money . Also Vortex dropped the msrp 2ish or so month's ago . The Burris XTR2 and 3 is also a good choice for less money .

Rings and bases are fairly simple since the action will take Rem 700 pattern bases . Get a good 1 piece picatinny base and rings that are the right height . The Vortex branded rings are made by Seekins and are GTG . EGW also has some economy priced stuff that is good quality exceeding the price .

Get a base with at least 20 MOA built in to it 30 would probably work also but 40 will be most likely too much to keep a 100 yard zero .

Another option is buying used glass from manufacturers with good warranties because they typically transfer with the scope .

[ChickNorris]

Already ordered the appropriate top rail for my rifle with 20moa.

Have my new Atlas adm bipod, extra magazines & case so I'm just about gtg as far as the essentials. Still have to decide on my rings which should be easier once I know which optic I'm going with.

I think there's a thread about including a level (not leveling) & might need to revisit it.

Any thoughts?

[C Ward]

Yes a level is recommended especially past 6 -700 yards . Inside of that the eye and brain are really good at making everything square and level .

People get to wrapped up with the reticle and rifle being perfectly inline with each other and that is not as critical as most make it seem .

The scope needs to be reasonably level to the gun but the gun needs to be set up to the shooter and not necessarily perpendicular to the ground . The important part is the reticule needs to be level with the world . That's why I always recommend the level be one that mounts to the scope tube and not the rifle or rings and bases .

Tubb used to have some good video explaining all this stuff , not sure if they are online any more or not .

[ChickNorris]

Not sure Ive seen a direct tube mount anywhere before, seems when I have it was often attached to the rings (Hawkins i think?) or occasionally the rail. Now I'm curious. Mind expanding on that?

For lack of a better description Ive been very centric to an ar15 bubble & I know absolutely nothing about bolt guns or precision shooting. Not that I will claim to know much about any of it but this is completely new & I'm interested in theory just as much as anything else.

Sometimes I over-think & I know it, but I'd rather ask now than burn range time & yup, this thread is d/evolving more than I meant.

[C Ward]

Something along these lines , https://www.accuracy1st.com/store/it...cfm?prodID=531

There are other manufacturers that offer similar stuff but I think this is the best one out there now .

Questions now save money and head aches in the long run .

https://youtu.be/Su1Vq-hc7MY

https://youtu.be/eCoHG23TQcY

The videos explain better than I can type .

[ChickNorris]

Ok. Thanks for the links.

So... now is where my research is thin & I still need to fill in some blanks on the timeline but one of my upcoming chores will be finding use of a magnetospeed (or labradar?) & sorting through various match ammo to see which groups best & has the desired minimum ES & then recording all the data (still trying to sort if there's a standard for this or just comes to personal preference, respectively).

Anyone want to help me out & add to this or ?

If there's already a thread to this subject with more info lmk because I must have missed it. Thanks.

[ChickNorris]

Also, I understand it could take a little bit for the groups to tighten up.