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  1. #1
    Machine Gunner Brian's Avatar
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    Default Garage insulation/sheetrocking - any last thoughts/tips?

    Finally saved up and am planning to have my 2 car attached garage (approx 22' x 25') insulated and drywalled soon. Both the walls and ceiling, and I plan to have it lightly textured and then painted very light grey (white ceiling) as well. If I'm clearing everything out to do this, I don't want to do it again.


    I had a subpanel put in, and extra outlets have been run along the walls at regular intervals. There are now two switched outlets on the ceiling that I plan to use for some costco linked LED shop lights. POE cam is up and running, a couple cat6 ethernet lines, as well as a coax+cat5e from the original build. Only thing I may be missing I can think of would be a ceiling fan box and maybe one more outlet in an upper corner somewhere for an electric heater, but a built-in heater is probably overkill for relatively mild CO winters. Not planning to do any floor coating, etc. at this point. There's a hose spigot I put in when we built the house as well, though it's in a dumb place. No floor drain. A sink would have been nice, but couldn't figure out how to make that work.


    Had a couple questions / looking for feedback on a few things though for those that have done this.


    1) Do I need a permit just for drywall and insulation for an attached garage? If so, is that a city or county thing? Is there any benefit to me other than "following the rules"?
    2) There's not a ton of space in the "attic" - but I believe I may have to have an access hatch anyway? If so I was debating sticking a couple pieces of plywood up there to use for lightweight storage or storing things like spare long lumber, empty gun shipping boxes or PVC pipe, Christmas lights maybe, etc. Worth messing with? Pic or two attached. If so, is a drop-down ladder way overkill?
    3) There are three roof vents near the top of the garage roof already. So I'm assuming I don't need to add any add'l venting...?
    4) Do I need to tell the contractor to do anything special with the ceiling drywall to prevent it from sagging or having issues in the future? I believe they're competent as they've done work for us before, but just wanted to try to think of anything I could in advance, and I don't know if they just screw/nail to the trusses or...?
    5) Do I care / need to tell them how to handle the garage door and opener framing, etc. (drywall "around it" or remove/reattach the brackets/wiring, etc) or should I just let them do their job?
    6) Any reason to get specific with what type/level of insulation I want other than the basics?


    Anyway, any thoughts/feedback appreciated before I kick off this work soon.

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  2. #2
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    I went with OSB instead of drywall. I work on stuff in my garage and the wood will take an accidental hit better than sheetrock. It also makes hanging things in the walls way easier. At the time I did mine the OSB was actually a little cheaper too. Plus, since I did the work myself I didn?t have to mess with any taping or sanding or whatever on the joints like you do with sheetrock. Paint it white or light gray and from ten feet away it?s hard to tell it isn?t sheetrock.

    Sorry I?ve got no answers to your questions. Let us know how it turns out.

  3. #3
    Gong Shooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray1970 View Post
    I went with OSB instead of drywall. I work on stuff in my garage and the wood will take an accidental hit better than sheetrock. It also makes hanging things in the walls way easier. At the time I did mine the OSB was actually a little cheaper too. Plus, since I did the work myself I didn?t have to mess with any taping or sanding or whatever on the joints like you do with sheetrock. Paint it white or light gray and from ten feet away it?s hard to tell it isn?t sheetrock.

    Sorry I?ve got no answers to your questions. Let us know how it turns out.
    I did osb in mine also. Exactly the same reasons. Love it would never go back to drywall in a garage

  4. #4
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    Put in the hatch so that there is future access in case anything up there needs to be serviced, technically the bottom cord of trusses aren’t designed to hang heavy stuff from nor to use as a storage platform but everyone does it anyway. Drywall is a fire barrier vs OSB which would be highly combustible, I don’t think OSB would pass building inspection inside of a garage, especially on an adjoining wall. Wire for some speakers for a stereo.

  5. #5
    BIG PaPa ray1970's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by def90 View Post
    Drywall is a fire barrier vs OSB which would be highly combustible, I don?t think OSB would pass building inspection inside of a garage, especially on an adjoining wall.
    Good thoughts. The wall between my garage and living space was already sheetrock so when I did the OSB I only did the rest of it and left the existing sheetrock on the one wall.

    My house is old. I bet there is a shit ton of stuff that wouldn?t pass inspection these days or doesn?t meet code.

  6. #6
    Grand Master Know It All 3beansalad's Avatar
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    Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

    Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

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    It's a measure of the civility in this country that no ones seems to fear constantly pissing off the people who own lots of guns.

  7. #7
    Machine Gunner
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3beansalad View Post
    Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

    Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


    PVC pipe is unsafe for compressed air. When it fails you get many small and jagged pieces flying about at high velocity, I've seen where those penetrated through insulation and aluminum siding.
    I am not smart enough to edit the "title"

  8. #8
    Grand Master Know It All 3beansalad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJ View Post
    PVC pipe is unsafe for compressed air. When it fails you get many small and jagged pieces flying about at high velocity, I've seen where those penetrated through insulation and aluminum siding.
    A danger for sure. I've never had problems but understand your point. The available nylon air kits would be a better choice I suppose if you don't want to hard pipe.

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    David - CS, CO feedback

    It's a measure of the civility in this country that no ones seems to fear constantly pissing off the people who own lots of guns.

  9. #9
    Machine Gunner Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3beansalad View Post
    Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

    Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

    I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

  10. #10
    The "Godfather" of COAR Great-Kazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

    I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

    #1: you can't have too many outlets

    #2 wire one in a box for at least a 30A 220v.

    #3 forget a heater. You're wasting valuable ceiling space with that box up in the corner. Go with a mini-split. It's compact, sits up close to ceiling and easier all around to have both heat & ac.
    With it attached to the house, you'll run it less. BUT have the convenience of staying warn in winter and cooler in summer.
    I've never met anyone with an ac/heat unit that said, they regretted installing .

    #4 DO NOT texture the sheet rock. Unless you're doing some Better H&G mancave. It's a garage, use it as such.

    #5 write out your plans, lay out where you want outlets, an air line and anything else you're thinking of. Lay out where the outlets and lights will be in the garage, using painters tape. Stare at those a few days, then revisit it over a week or so. Then commit to doing it.

    #6 semi gloss white paint will really enhance any lights you do. Definitely the 4' daylight led's


    #7 If you're using an air compressor. Consider pouring a 4x4 pad behind out back, or side of garage . Put compressor in, enclose the pad, leaving enough room to reach the outlet etc. Don't forget to insulate it. Run line in to garage. You'll save more floor space with it outside, as well as much quieter.
    The Great Kazoo's Feedback

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