Garage insulation/sheetrocking - any last thoughts/tips?

[Brian]

Do not texture a garage. It will collect dust, paint overspray, smoke etc and you will NEVER get it clean.

I was wondering about that too. I got the sense reading online that a "smooth" finish might actually cost more than a textured finish though...? On one hand it's a garage, so I'm not too worried about it being perfect, but I don't want to end up being annoyed later seeing seams and having it generally look bad. I've got a ton of junk (still working on decluttering) and cleaning all this out at once is realistically the one and only time I'll do it. Is it realistic to ask them to not do texturing and have it come out with a good decent smooth finish? There's actually currently a cost built in for the texturing, so if it made it cheaper, even better... will ask them what they think next week too.

[Brian]

If you want, go to WWW.GarageJournal.com and visit some other garagemahal ideas.

Oh man I love/hate that site. I still have dreams of building out my HF cabinets like in the "steeveo" thread.

[Brian]

Do you use air in your garage? Air lines are always a nice addition to a garage. Rated PVC above ceiling in case they need service.

Any attic space makes the hatch a necessity. For storing the things you listed if nothing else. Drop down ladder just makes it easier to get there so why not?

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Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

[Irving]

I was wondering about that too. I got the sense reading online that a "smooth" finish might actually cost more than a textured finish though...? On one hand it's a garage, so I'm not too worried about it being perfect, but I don't want to end up being annoyed later seeing seams and having it generally look bad. I've got a ton of junk (still working on decluttering) and cleaning all this out at once is realistically the one and only time I'll do it. Is it realistic to ask them to not do texturing and have it come out with a good decent smooth finish? There's actually currently a cost built in for the texturing, so if it made it cheaper, even better... will ask them what they think next week too.

Be careful how you ask for a smooth finish. A level five finish is going to be different than just painting with a roller. Painting with a roller will be smooth enough for what you want. Machine texture has hard edges to catch all the dirt like Bert mentioned. There is more drywall mud prepwork involved for a smooth finish than with texture, but I wouldn't think it'd be that much more, especially considering it's for a garage.

[rondog]

I might be a NEWBIE, but I am definately NOT a TRADING POST TROLL.

We extended an attached 24 x 24 by 20 feet into a 44 x 24 about 10 years ago.

I used 1/2 inch ply instead of OSB for the "working walls" of the garage, kept drywall on the common walls and behind the shelving on one wall. Same reasons as some have already mentioned.

Insulating the ceiling will really help. I have a Modine Hot Dawg overhead heater, and very tight sealing garage doors, and I lose very little heat overnight.

Install as many outlets as you can. I did outlets every 48 inches, 48 inches above the floor. Also, use as many circuits as possible to avoid overloading any one circuit. Use GFI breakers on all garage circuits. Plan for a 220 compressor, even if you dont have the need now.

A suggestion on the compressor circuit. I wired it through a relay from the overhead light circuit. When I turn off the lights, it is impossible for the compressor to cycle in the middle of the night. Wife is happy. Also used 3/4 in copper. Agreed that PVC is dangerous.

install as many lights as you can . In my 44 x24, I have 54 4 foot T8 bulbs. LEDs are more popular now, but some people come by, and they have commented that my garage can be seen from space. You can never have too much light. Install some lights in the attic so that you can see what is up there when you go exploring.

Windows are great for ventilation and natural light. But for security sake, they can be a problem with too many people seeing what is in your garage, and they can be an easy entry point for bad guys.

If you want, go to WWW.GarageJournal.com and visit some other garagemahal ideas.

I really love spending other peoples money.


Derald.

Attachment 82544

Gawddamn.....I'd like to just SEE such a tinkerpalace! I'll even bring beer and BBQ sammiches.....

[Great-Kazoo]

Debated air, but I'll probably skip it. I had a bunch of bigger tools that I've sold off in the last year or two - just wasn't using them as much and I converted to smaller things on fold-up carts, etc. Just not enough room for everything I thought I'd use.

I'll have to price out ladders. Seemed at first like it might be overkill, but maybe it's not after all. I wonder though if there's enough reinforcement up there to support one - I assume they're fairly heavy with a decently rated ladder.

#1: you can't have too many outlets

#2 wire one in a box for at least a 30A 220v.

#3 forget a heater. You're wasting valuable ceiling space with that box up in the corner. Go with a mini-split. It's compact, sits up close to ceiling and easier all around to have both heat & ac.
With it attached to the house, you'll run it less. BUT have the convenience of staying warn in winter and cooler in summer.
I've never met anyone with an ac/heat unit that said, they regretted installing .

#4 DO NOT texture the sheet rock. Unless you're doing some Better H&G mancave. It's a garage, use it as such.

#5 write out your plans, lay out where you want outlets, an air line and anything else you're thinking of. Lay out where the outlets and lights will be in the garage, using painters tape. Stare at those a few days, then revisit it over a week or so. Then commit to doing it.

#6 semi gloss white paint will really enhance any lights you do. Definitely the 4' daylight led's


#7 If you're using an air compressor. Consider pouring a 4x4 pad behind out back, or side of garage . Put compressor in, enclose the pad, leaving enough room to reach the outlet etc. Don't forget to insulate it. Run line in to garage. You'll save more floor space with it outside, as well as much quieter.

[newracer]

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

[Great-Kazoo]

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

Needs plumbing to be adjusted as a living space.


IMO it's a garage, pay a decent contractor, if you're not up to the task. Make sure it's up to code and call it good.

[DeraldR]

Not sure if true but I have heard that if you texture and paint in a garage then it can be considered livable space and therefore your taxes could go up.

Larimer county tried to do that to me. They had never even seen it. I had to go to a hearing to get the appraised value back to normal.

[flogger]

Put in a bunch of wiring for 'can' lights. They have some new LED pancake remodel pucks that are really nice and well priced. You can never have too much light. Add some wall outlets while your at it

Another thought is ventilation, you may want to add soffit/gable vents to keep air moving up there once its sealed off. As mentioned before, a retractable access ladder is a good idea and if you plan on storing anything up there (and you will), beef-up the trusses and add a floor but don't put the bowling ball collection up there.