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actually, this one is probably better for sprinker line, since it includes the drain as well:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-B...lve/1000914746
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-3-4-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-4-in-Push-to-Connect-Multi-Turn-Stop-and-Waste-Valve/1000914752
Last edited by DenverGP; 04-27-2021 at 16:33.
'Unless a law-abiding individual has a firearm for his or her own defense, the police typically arrive after it is too late. With rigor mortis setting in, they mark and bag the evidence, interview bystanders, and draw a chalk outline on the ground' - Judge Benitez , 2019, Duncan v. Becerra.
'One of the ordinary modes by which Tyrants accomplish their purpose without resistance is by disarming the people and making it an offense to keep arms.' Supreme Court Justice Joseph Story, 1840.
Yep, I’m familiar with the solution, at least well enough to know I’d rather not do the “home owner repair method” with the shark bite. I just have 3 total copper cutting/valve replacements to do of varying complexity and importance, that cumulatively have me leaning toward just hiring a professional this time. That, and my week and next two weekends are booked.
Please leave any relevant feedback here:
Sawin - Feedback thread.
Finding plumbers willing to show up and not charge outrageous money is what will eventually drive me to by a Milwaukee PEX expander and do it my self. PEX A really seems to be idiot proof, so it is perfect for me.
YouTube. Parts. Solder. Map Gas torch. Pipe scraper. Pipe cutter or saw and file. Piece of aluminum and drywall.
5 more trips to hardware store and done.
When I decided to get a water softener, I determined that "I can do all the plumbing myself" and set forth to get parts and practice beforehand and map everything out. I thought I had it all down pat. The day came to get everything set up for real. I got it all installed and was pretty confident that my soldering was good. Turned on the water and had a few leaks. Turned off the water and tried to remedy. Rinse, repeat. Still had a couple leaks. This was on a weekend and I ended up calling a plumber to come out and try to square things away before admitting to the wife that I messed up and that we wouldn't have water for a day or so.Originally Posted by Erni
Really nice guy came out and helped fix everything. Cost me about $500 for a weekend, off-hours call. But . . . he took some pity on me and actually spent the time while he was here to teach me what I did wrong and how to fix it--and how to avoid the mistakes I made. That's been invaluable. Since that point, I have done a few more projects that all went great.
You don't learn until you try. But I sure ran head-first into Murphy and his Law while learning.
You can sometimes take off the handle and tighten the packing nut and reinstall the handle
Gate valves fail faster than ball valves. The drain is called a waste. So ideally you want a "full port stop and waste ball valve" of the appropriate pipe diameter.actually, this one is probably better for sprinker line, since it includes the drain as well:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-B...lve/1000914746
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-3-4-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-4-in-Push-to-Connect-Multi-Turn-Stop-and-Waste-Valve/1000914752
Shark bites fail at the connections more often than they should. Putting them on pex seems to be worse than copper
You dont need the Milwaukee expander. You can get a manual expander. Or the ring crimper. The one that crushes the sprinkler line like hose clamp things is a serious point of failure if done incorrectly.
However you still need some type of transition to pex, which will usually require soldering. So you might as well either do a full conversion or just stick with copper
The Milwaukee pro press series might be the solution for you though
Last edited by Wulf202; 04-27-2021 at 21:27.
A buddy who's not technically licensed as a plumber because union shops wont qualify his non union time as an apprentice to get a journeyman card could theoretically assist the home owner..... as long as the homeowner remains in control you wouldn't need insurance or a business license. Just saying
I know the M12 expander is expensive, but it would be totally worth it if I never had to pay a plumber again. I keep checking pawn shops for one, but so far no luck. PEX A seems like it can't be installed incorrectly. Nothing will fit together unless you expand the tube properly, and then it spends the rest of it's life trying to get back to its original size. I'm thinking that I will initially put push to fit connections on my transitions as those will be in visible and easily accessible locations. As I have time, I can sweat fit transitions to PEX fittings or just run PEX all the way. I will be replacing 70 year old 1/2" copper, so setting up hot and cold manifolds in the basement with one hot and cold line run to each bathroom, the kitchen, and laundry. T's or three ways in those rooms to the final cut off valve at each fixture.
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