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  1. #1

    Default water heater questions

    Got into the house in 2013, water heater has never been serviced. I got some rust colored water out this morning, so I think it's time to pay attention. I'm being told that service/draining at this point could lead to trouble.
    Should I just get into a new unit?
    House is a 1000sf cookie cutter from the '50s (and I still got the popcorn ceiling too). Should I consider tankless?
    All tin is within current code.

  2. #2
    Grand Master Know It All
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    If the tank is more than 10 years old, just replace it.

    Tankless requires supply and exhaust to be within specific ranges. Start with those two things in order to consider tankless. Generally they're only cost effective during full rehab or new construction.

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    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    I'd go double tankless. Not having two tanks is better than not having one tank. Two is none, one is none. You get the idea.

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    Grand Master Know It All BladesNBarrels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    I'd go double tankless. Not having two tanks is better than not having one tank. Two is none, one is none. You get the idea.
    Who's on first?

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    My Avatar Is Prettier Than I Am asystejs's Avatar
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    These are the recommendation we received recently
    https://www.navieninc.com/residentia...-water-heaters
    and install a re-circulation line to the room(s) farthest away from the heater so the pipe stays warm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by asystejs View Post
    These are the recommendation we received recently
    https://www.navieninc.com/residentia...-water-heaters
    and install a re-circulation line to the room(s) farthest away from the heater so the pipe stays warm.
    So you're saying that you are removing the tank and going tankless and then circulating the line constantly?

    Who's on first indeed...

  7. #7
    Grand Master Know It All eddiememphis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf202 View Post
    So you're saying that you are removing the tank and going tankless and then circulating the line constantly?

    Who's on first indeed...
    The pump has a thermostat so it only runs when the line cools.

    In 1000 SqFt, you likely don't need a recirc line unless you demand instant hot water.

    The most common problem with draining an old tank is sediment contaminating the drain valve so it doesn't seal when closed. Some people will have the same problem with the TPR valve- that's the one up high- Temperature Pressure Relief.

    You can extend the life of your tank type heater by checking the anode rod and replacing as necessary. A whole house water filter will screen out a lot of contaminants that can shorten the life of the unit.

    A newer heater will likely be more efficient than the old one and you may consider one with a stainless tank.

  8. #8
    My Avatar Is Prettier Than I Am asystejs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wulf202 View Post
    So you're saying that you are removing the tank and going tankless and then circulating the line constantly?

    Who's on first indeed...
    It is in a new build.

    Tankless does not mean you get instant hot water when the shower is 40 feet away from the tankless unit.

  9. #9
    Smells Like Carp
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    Modern NG tankless units need a dedicated circuit to the breaker box. The little on demand ignition spark.
    We ended up having to replace our breaker box to comply with code.
    Our 1960 tri level had few good options for cheap hot water.
    I like sex, drugs and automatic weapons. That's why i'm a dues paying member of the Libertarian party. Struggling to keep the government away from messing with the above.
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    Grand Master Know It All Hummer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by battlemidget View Post
    Got into the house in 2013, water heater has never been serviced. I got some rust colored water out this morning, so I think it's time to pay attention. I'm being told that service/draining at this point could lead to trouble.
    Should I just get into a new unit?
    House is a 1000sf cookie cutter from the '50s (and I still got the popcorn ceiling too). Should I consider tankless?
    All tin is within current code.
    I'm not a plumber and I'm not up on the latest, greatest, but I do most of my own plumbing. If I was seeing rusty water, I would drain and flush/refill and drain again. Try to remove the sediments that are in the tank. If it fails, leaks, well it was going to anyway. Then you can replace it knowing you have to.

    I prefer to repair what I can, but move on if I can't. And I'll hire smarter repairmen when I'm out of my skill set.

    FWIW, the water heater in our current house, a little family cabin built in the 1960's still has the original Montgomery Wards propane water heater that's dated March 1965. Not super efficient like the modern offerings but it keeps on ticking. Drained and refilled once in a while. Fifty six years young. Made in America.

    At the Palisade farm house I built in 92, installed a Sam's Club Rheem water tank that lasted 25 years. I replaced it with a 50 gallon indirect tank that works off the main boiler heating system. Very efficient as it is one less fired appliance and provides a virtually endless supply of hot water. It makes the boiler fire more often which will reduce it's life some but it's still going reliably at 29+ years. Also made in America.

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