Close
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11

    Default

    3/16" between flats, I think it's too tight for the arisaka tool. I wish all mounts came with a leveling screw.

  2. #12
    Woodsmith with "Mod-like" Powers
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Woodland Park
    Posts
    3,269

    Default

    I can help you with it if you like. I generally level the rifle with a bubble level and then line up the reticle with something I know is plumb. Alternatively, I’ll use a stack of paper shims between the top of the mount and the bottom of the scope if I’m in a hurry.

    The former method gets the reticle plumb. The latter gets the erector plumb. Which is more important to you (the reticle is not always perfectly aligned with the erector) depends on weather you will primarily be shooting at longer ranges off the reticle or if you’ll be dialing the scope. Unless you have a level on the rifle, none of it makes a lick of difference since you’ll be canting the rifle no matter what.

    PM me if you want some help. I’m in Woodland Park
    "It takes considerable knowledge just to realize the extent of your ignorance"

    Thomas Sowell

    www.timkulincabinetry.com

    See our reviews below:

    http://www.thumbtack.com/Tim-Kulin-C...service/788419

  3. #13
    Rabid Anti-Dentite Hoser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    KCOS
    Posts
    9,184

    Default

    I use feeler gauges to get the bottom of the erector housing parallel with the mount.

    However the reticle might be off a few degrees which could be your problem.
    You know I like my coffee sweet in the morning
    and I'm crazy about my tea at night

  4. #14
    Serial Speed Limit Breaker
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Aurora
    Posts
    1,200

    Default

    The second I get mine all tru'ed up, I get in a conversation, and spin the wheel out of nervous energy.

    Once you get it tru'ed up, lock it down nice and tight.

    -John

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoser View Post
    I use feeler gauges to get the bottom of the erector housing parallel with the mount.

    However the reticle might be off a few degrees which could be your problem.
    That's a good point, thanks!

    I've gotten alot of good ideas from this thread, y'all are awesome. I'm going to shim with a deck of cards, I got some stiff 30 year old E&E playing cards with edible plants and tiny ass print that I'll never be able to read without a microscope, so glad I hung onto that. I'll do that while I look at the reticle over a plumbline at distance.
    There's 2 clamps, should I obsess over the gaps on the sides of the clamps, or is a little incongruence ok?

  6. #16
    Woodsmith with "Mod-like" Powers
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Woodland Park
    Posts
    3,269

    Default

    I like the gaps to be very close to equal. I don’t think it matters in the slightest, but the amount of effort required to equalize the gaps is small compared to the reduction of noise in my brain if they are not.
    "It takes considerable knowledge just to realize the extent of your ignorance"

    Thomas Sowell

    www.timkulincabinetry.com

    See our reviews below:

    http://www.thumbtack.com/Tim-Kulin-C...service/788419

  7. #17
    Gong Shooter
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Thornton
    Posts
    331

    Default

    Wow, I absently mindedly clicked on this and found out something cool here!
    Thanks!

  8. #18
    Smells Like Carp
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Widefield Colorado.
    Posts
    1,122

    Default

    A old spark plug gap tool helps with equalizing ring gap.
    I like sex, drugs and automatic weapons. That's why i'm a dues paying member of the Libertarian party. Struggling to keep the government away from messing with the above.
    My Wife has her own vice.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •