This bench is going against the side wall where my car is usually parked. When folded it should be flatter than 3". If I leave the legs on I am worried the kids will either bump into them or ding the car door. I have another bench but it's boxed in on 3 sides and anything large is a pain to work on.
Solid core door = 1 3/4"
1 1/4" sub frame
1" pipe legs hinged or pinned to recess into sub frame = 3" thick bench when folded up and pipes recessed so car doors can only bump wood. Can't really bump at all if bench hinges up to wall when closed instead of down when closed.
Very good configuration in limited space and only have to handle 1/2 of door weight if hinged to wall. Legs are automatic if also hinged or pinned.
Not necessary, 1 1/4" is negligible for support anyway, acts as buffer/bumper for steel legs when folded closed, some depends on door itself. I prefer 3" frame on all benches but a good rigid solid core door can handle most homeowner duty jobs and save space. I would use three legs along the length regardless of sub frame.
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Hmmm, now that you mention it 3 legs make a lot of sense. Dangit, I just bought 2 sets of 1" pipe and flanges tonight, guess I will have to go back.
The wall cleat to door attachment will be with 7 hinges at about 12" spacing. A bit overkill but i got all those ginges for $5 at Restore when I picked up the door. I think the fasteners will cost me more than that. The cleat is a solid poplar board I picked up and is same thickness as the door, so it should be strong enough.
The cleat to stud mounting will be with 1/4 x 4 screws from Lowes. I think they were for bolting garden box timbers together. I found info for thise bolts that says they should be plenty strong.
And yeah this is a hobby bench, so it won't be used like a heavy duty pro carving bench. Damit, getting exited to finish this project.