The post whore thread.

[stoner01]

What size OD, threading ID, length and material?

If its aluminum, delrin or UHMW - yes. If stainless steel or some other form of steel or hard metal, then no.

Also, how long do you want to wait for it?!

Well if it's faster than the US govt then in not too worried

[BuffCyclist]

Haha, well a simple cap would be easy. I tried making two square plates with 2 holes and 2 slots, and somehow I totally screwed it up lol. I can only get 2 bolts to work, but at least i have the plates and with those, i might be able to still get the dang thing to work with clamps.

Sigh, if I wasn't rushed for time it probably would have come out better...

[HoneyBadger]

HB,

Is there any buildup on the decapper rod or inside the neck opening?

If they're carbide dies, take some 600-1500 wet sandpaper and get that crap off at both spots. Wrap the (wet) paper around a cleaning brush or fold it into an end split dowel chucked in a drill.

I'm getting galling on the cases due to brass deposits adhering to the inside of my .308 FL carbide die. Lee says no lube is needed, I say BS at this point.

Yeah, there was a decent amount of "gunk" (for lack of a better term) on the decapper rod.

[Great-Kazoo]

Sigh, first time back on a mill in a long time and I get to the end of machining my sight pusher and what do I do? I drill a 1/4" hole for a 1/4-20 bolt .

Stupid me, you're better than that! A 1/4-20 bolt requires a #7 drill bit!

Oh well, guess I'll just spend another 3 hours tonight redoing it all...

heli - coil it.

[BuffCyclist]

heli - coil it.

It wasn't worth it, looked like shit and I couldn't get two of the diagonal bolts to work.

It was basically two pieces of 1/2" aluminum with 4 holes drilled in the corners, two of the holes were slotted other two were tapped. Slotted holes went on top and bottom of each other, so it could be an expanding open.

The slide ... aw screw it...

[BuffCyclist]

This is the first one, truly universal. There are lots of bolts so I could tighten against slides that are slanted (like XD's and other triangular slides lol). The bolts would push into a 0.25" thick rubber sheet, clamping and non-marring. The vertical piece is adjustable up and down 0.5", and is a 10-32 bolt (nylon, brass, whatever).

Attachment 36925

The second is the one I attempted to machine and was horribly out of spec. I could only get two bolts diagonal from each other to clamp. Tried clamping it together with a piece of barstock as the slide and holy heck, too difficult.

Attachment 36927

This is the third on that I machined. I will use a 3" C-Clamp to clamp horizontally and vertically towards the front of the slide, again using that 0.25" thick rubber sheet. The back is a piece that I already machined and will be held top and bottom with 1" C-Clamps. Then again, it has that 10-32 bolt to push out the dovetail.

I think I need to machine another horizontal access port on the front of the tubing so I can clamp the slide to the other side for the install (and move the vertical pushing bolt to the other side of the slide.

Attachment 36929

eta: And yes, jim, I took your advice way back when with my reloading bench about mounting the press to a 2"x12" board and clamping that to the bench. You said a true hobbyist/tinkerer will use c-clamps for everything, and I remember that often when designing things. I believe this will be more than sufficient and if it doesn't work, I can redesign the push screw mounting plate and still use the frame.

[HoneyBadger]

Broncos time!

[TheBelly]

Hey there, Belly....nice video.....I dig Didi.

Dude! I totally missed you from earlier today. Hope the time with the kiddo was great!

[BuffCyclist]

Mmm, hot Simply Apple faux-apple-cider!

[stoner01]

Sup hos