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Like Sawin I pack my EDC. It is a little different though... I carry a Glock 29sf... nothing compares to the fire power it packs. 10+1 of 10mm ammo that makes as much energy as a 41 mag (~700lb/ft+). Does not get any better than that in a handgun imho.
Not to bash your 10mm, but it won't even come close to a hot .41 mag load. Buffalo Bore lists a few 10mm loads at just over 700 ft. lbs. of energy. They also list several .41 mag loads at over 1,000 ft. lbs. of energy.Originally Posted by wrestler034
Don't get me wrong, the 10mm is one of my favorite semi-auto cartridges and is an excellent option for a "woods gun". But to compare it to the .41 mag is unrealistic.
No, it is not a "hot" 41 mag. In its hottest form the 10mm is similar to a mild 41 mag. I would much rather have 11 rounds of mild(If 700 lb/ft can be called that) that I can easily control in rapid fire. YMMV.
This is what I typically do... minus the .38's.
This.
My 3" Smith M60 is the ultimate in versatility, convenience and practicality for me when hunting elk around the ranch.
That said, for backpacking excursions into the high country, lighter is better. I'll usually carry a Diamondback DB380 with CorBons or my Kahr P9.
Rossi Ranch Hand .357/.38 Special. Stock photo of course- I don't have any pics of mine.
I love this gun. Sweet shooter...
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Last edited by Danimal; 02-27-2016 at 11:46.
I suggested a .357/.38 lever before. I'm getting ready to load some .357 see how it does in my lever.
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Consider a 38 spl. In a survival mode its not to hot to shoot small game and with a decent cast SWC it will kill large game.
If your trying to live off the land etc. and legal issues are not important a 38 will work for most needs.
A alloy model 638 weighs less about a pound. a model 60 with a three/four inch barrel would be almost ideal.
Yes you can shoot .357 in the newer guns. If you think your going to swap out rounds while chasing rabbits I want to watch.
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In my experience SWC (semi-wad cutters) are a low power round designed for target shooting. It will expand very little and typically has nominal velocity to begin with. There are higher velocity SWC available (around 1100FPS) however due to limited expansion they would not be my first choice for large game.
Federal 125gr JHP in S&W 686 4":
.38 = 923 FPS
.357 = 1436 FPS
A .357 (except the new aluminum frame .38s) weighs about the same as a comparable .38 and are roughly the same size. You should not shoot a .357 in a .38, even it it could stand the much higher pressures the .357 COAL is greater (1.550" vs 1.590)" and will usually prevent the cylinder from rotating in a properly functioning revolver. Example 125gr JHP sample load data - .38=15600 CUP vs .357=41200 CUP. Typically if a .38 revolver will chamber a .357 it is either substantially worn or has very loose tolerances, e.g.; cylinder gap. The disadvantages of a .357 over .38 are primarily recoil and muzzle flash. There may be a slight accuracy loss when using .38 in a .357 due to the slight gap between the bullet and the forcing cone as well as the lower velocity.
If you know what you put in it (and direction of rotation) doesn't take a lot of time to pull the hammer back partially and rotate the cylinder a couple rounds.
Or you could practice until you can do this (see :31 sec mark).
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