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  1. #11
    Gong Shooter rustycrusty's Avatar
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    A strop for cheap- ANY old leather belt- take it and sand the leather with some rough sandpaper- it should look like rough leather used in desert boots. I get knives to pass the 'hanging hair test' (YouTube it) frequently using this method.

    People will tell you that you need specialized leather- BULLSHIT

    Horsehide is high end because it is near frictionless in feel.
    All other leathers are merely suited to people's preference- ppl who want more feedback opt for a rougher leather. In the end it is all angle and pressure that determines the end sharpness

    To prove this I can hone a dull knife on newspaper or the back of a legal pad if you like


    (BTW hanging hair test is a high standard in straight razor community)

    -added tidbit edit- I strop on naked leather for finishing- as in 0 compound present.
    To cut the steel faster you can add soot to the strop (poor mans 1micron grinding compound)
    Last edited by rustycrusty; 10-30-2012 at 02:44.
    "its like a f****** turkey shoot" -Travis Haley

  2. #12
    Gong Shooter rustycrusty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loudbay View Post
    I'm just a whippersnapper, but have wanted to get into shaving with a straight razor, just because its 'old world', sometimes i feel like I'm a man out of my time... I really enjoy leatherworking, and its a dying art for sure.

    DVC357, I'll work a strop for you today.

    Cheers,
    Matt
    If you are giving them away... I would LOVE a 3" pasted paddle strop...
    Hell I would even settle for a hanging strop! Using a 1.25" belt just isn't classy...

    What compound Size u use? I have been looking at making one with 1micron and then .25microm paste for my straights.
    "its like a f****** turkey shoot" -Travis Haley

  3. #13
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    So 2,000 grit is rough enough to start fresh on a non-convex blade? You don't need anything else to shape the blade initially?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irving View Post
    So 2,000 grit is rough enough to start fresh on a non-convex blade? You don't need anything else to shape the blade initially?
    Svord has videos of sandpaper use to convert a peasant knife to a convex edge. I start with 800 for a dull knife and take it up to 2000. 2000 gives a nice edge for the kitchen.

    http://www.svord.com/pages/catalog/PKVIDEO.htm

    Overall I prefer the results of a spyderco triangle sharpmaker to sandpaper/convex method. Touching up a convex edge with sandpaper in the field has obvious benefit in terms of portability, however...

  5. #15
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Well, I'm not doing a very good job on the knife I'm trying this with. I'm using one of those finishing blocks where it is basically a sponge with sand paper on it. I think it probably 180 grit. I started with that just to get the shape. Then I went and picked up some 1,000 and 2,000 grit to lay over the top. Are you guys wet sanding to achieve the results you're getting?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  6. #16
    Gong Shooter rustycrusty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anomad View Post
    Svord has videos of sandpaper use to convert a peasant knife to a convex edge. I start with 800 for a dull knife and take it up to 2000. 2000 gives a nice edge for the kitchen.
    Agreed- Irving- do this.
    180grit is... Ambitious. I used a cheap foam nail file to shape my first time- guessing its 500grit? And then went to 1k then 2 then strop (cheap leather belt).

    as for the spyderco set- I can't say, it looks nice... I've only ever used 1 stone and the convex method

    Convex method does afford more strength to the edge than a straight chisel edge or a angled flat grind edge (for the same reason why rounded arches in structures are strongest) but the edge is not suited to all tasks

    And Irving- I will bring the bk2 up to fridpa
    "its like a f****** turkey shoot" -Travis Haley

  7. #17
    Really is Llama Not_A_Llama's Avatar
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    For the convexing, I did this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/863938

    180 grit is waaaaay too aggressive for that kind of work.

    Then I have sandpaper and an old foam mousepad. I set the sandpaper on the cloth side of the mousepad. 800 for restoring *destroyed* edges. 1000, then 2000 will put a very workable edge on.

    Past that, a surplus leather sling with a little Flitz on it for self-gratification.

    The back of a legal pad, and stropping on my own skin, past that.
    9mm - because they don't make a 9.1mm

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustycrusty View Post
    the method is this:

    glue a mousepad strip to some hard flat surface with a handle (paint stir stick for me) and paperclip a piece of sandpaper to the stick.
    -for nicked edges or blunted blades start at 600grit or coarser

    -for an edge that will catch and shave the the top of your thumbnail start with 1k grit

    Use the paddle as a strop- meaning you have the blade facing you as you push it away from you. the blade is away from you as you draw it towards yourself. DO NOT ROLL THE BLADE AS YOU CHANGE DIRECTIONS- come all the way off the surface and then flip it

    Use an 'x' motion when doing this so that you draw away from yourself left to right and draw towards yourself right to left.

    The blade should be at appx. 30 degrees from the sand paper

    When starting -pressure on the blade is enough to feel the mousepad give. do 20-40 laps at this pressure.

    Taper the pressure off on each grit before going to the next highest grit. the last laps should be just the weight of the blade and no more pressure.

    1k grit gets scary sharp
    2k grit gets arm hair snag sharp
    leather belt stropping after 2k gets arm hair shave.

    (this is the method i used to restore my grandfathers straight razor, with the exception that i took the straight razor all the way to an 8k honing stone before leather stropping)
    This is very interesting- going to have to try it out... Thanks for the tips...

  9. #19
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll have to catch up and try and get my blade sharp with this method.
    "There are no finger prints under water."

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