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  1. #1
    Gong Shooter rustycrusty's Avatar
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    Default razor sharp for CHEAP



    Got a convexed edge on my BK2 via stropping on 1k grit and then 2k grit.

    The sandpaper was paper clipped onto a mousepad which was glued onto a thick paint stir stick (the stir stick acting as a handle and rigid support

    Afterward did about 100 laps on a leather belt and then ran it across my arm hair...

    it clean shaved it.

    I will be using this sharpening method from now on and i thought the knowledge should be shared.

    fyi- this blade is not designed to be honed this sharp- but it is VERY easily doable.
    "its like a f****** turkey shoot" -Travis Haley

  2. #2
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    Can you describe the way that you did this, in so much as which direction you moved the paper over the blade? Sharp end into the paper, or away from the paper. Can you just bring it to the next match?
    "There are no finger prints under water."

  3. #3
    Gong Shooter rustycrusty's Avatar
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    the method is this:

    glue a mousepad strip to some hard flat surface with a handle (paint stir stick for me) and paperclip a piece of sandpaper to the stick.
    -for nicked edges or blunted blades start at 600grit or coarser

    -for an edge that will catch and shave the the top of your thumbnail start with 1k grit

    Use the paddle as a strop- meaning you have the blade facing you as you push it away from you. the blade is away from you as you draw it towards yourself. DO NOT ROLL THE BLADE AS YOU CHANGE DIRECTIONS- come all the way off the surface and then flip it

    Use an 'x' motion when doing this so that you draw away from yourself left to right and draw towards yourself right to left.

    The blade should be at appx. 30 degrees from the sand paper

    When starting -pressure on the blade is enough to feel the mousepad give. do 20-40 laps at this pressure.

    Taper the pressure off on each grit before going to the next highest grit. the last laps should be just the weight of the blade and no more pressure.

    1k grit gets scary sharp
    2k grit gets arm hair snag sharp
    leather belt stropping after 2k gets arm hair shave.

    (this is the method i used to restore my grandfathers straight razor, with the exception that i took the straight razor all the way to an 8k honing stone before leather stropping)
    "its like a f****** turkey shoot" -Travis Haley

  4. #4
    Plinker
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    My bk2 and 14 are both convexed as well! I have a spyderco triangle sharpener, which honestly seems like it will get things sharper than my convexing, but just stropping a blade is much more pack friendly in the woods. The tri angle still sharpens about everything else in the house. Cheers! m.

  5. #5

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    Where do you get a leather strop for CHEAP

  6. #6
    Plinker
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    I could make a strop for a reasonable cost if someone here wants to learn to use one. The one I use is mounted to a piece of wood and has valve grinding compound on one side and green polishing compound on the other. I could make strap strop for any of you straight razor or weight weenie backpacker guys...

  7. #7
    Paper Hunter DVC357's Avatar
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    Hey brother, if your up to giving lessons, i'm up to learning.
    Maybe you can teach an Old Dog.
    I use a belt sander which is great in the shop, but never learned to use a Strop.
    To fight and conquer in one hundred battles is not the highest skill.
    To subdue the enemy with no fight at all,

    "That," is the highest skill.
    - Sun Tsu

  8. #8
    Plinker
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    I'm just a whippersnapper, but have wanted to get into shaving with a straight razor, just because its 'old world', sometimes i feel like I'm a man out of my time... I really enjoy leatherworking, and its a dying art for sure.

    DVC357, I'll work a strop for you today. Knives and tool steel or straight razor? If you're using a belt sander, that's essentially convexing your edges, so this should be right up your alley. I don't think a lesson will be necessary, but I'd be happy to meet up for a drink.

    For everyone else: Be aware, once you convex and start using a strop on your blade, you'll essentially ruin your hard work by going back to a stone system of sharpening. You can't get lazy. That's why the kitchen stuff gets the stone still, for simplicity sake, and my knives I enjoy using, get convexed and maintained as a labor of love.

    Edit: I'd like to know the size of your blades as well, to be sure I make it wide and long enough.

    Cheers,
    Matt

  9. #9
    Really is Llama Not_A_Llama's Avatar
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    I've also been on a "Get the BK2 incongruously sharp" kick. Likewise convexed.

    1000 and 2000 grit passes are my basics, and get the knife very usably sharp.

    Discovered a very quick way to get it scary sharp in a hurry:

    A smooth-ish leather belt or sling (I use a $2 surplus sling from the gunshow), with just the lightest coating of Flitz. 20 passes per side will get you well into excessive territory. Scary sharp, and very polished, for little friction. Now, my arms aren't quite as yeti-like as rusty's, but some takeaways from shaving my face with the BK2 yesterday:

    1) scrapes all oil off
    2) end product substitutes for grinding compound and/or spackle
    3) lotta skin cells
    4) BK2 mercilessly unforgiving of acne

    Bear in mind the BK2 is +/- a sharpened 1/4" prybar
    Last edited by Not_A_Llama; 10-29-2012 at 14:57.
    9mm - because they don't make a 9.1mm

  10. #10
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    I am also a member on http://straightrazorplace.com/ . It is a great sight for info to get you started on shaving with a straight razor. I have a couple of straights and love them. My favorite is a Boker that is from the early 1900's.
    There is definitley a process to shaving with a straight so you don't scrape your face off completely.

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