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Any tips for doing a rattle can paint job? I?ve never done it before and I have an old 20g mossy sitting in the safe that could use a Maaco paint job. It?s got lots of scratches and scrapes and I?m thinking a two tone paint job would look pretty good on it.
https://i.postimg.cc/s2f0fDnC/C7-EFD...-D8105-C43.jpg
Degrease it really good. That?s my main tip.
I used VHT high temp engine. I wanted a chance of solvent resistance. Was very easy to scratch after 24 hours. Looked online folks said wait a week or two. After doing that (waiting 2 weeks)it has been surprisingly durable. Problem is you have to pick an engine color. Purchased at Advanced Auto.
Appliance Epoxy paint.
Brownells Alumahyde (not to be confused with formaldehyde) . You can either bake the parts in an over. OR if patient enough let it cure (air dry) for 2 weeks. The Epoxy paints are not bad either. What ever you choose will need drying time.
The paint scheme should be Ford blue /Chevy orangish red and what ever color slopar is for the furniture. It will look like a lego toy.
+1 to this. The prep work should not be rushed. Poor prep = poor job whatever you use.Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1970
We have some wax and grease remover that the guys on the paint crew use to clean their guns. Now that I am thinking about it, I may even be able to get them to sandblast it first..
I typically leave the original finish underneath the paint job. As the paint gets scratched or worn or whatever I would rather expose ratty old finish than bare metal. I'm sure glass beading or sand blasting would promote good adhesion for the new finish though.
Also, your thread reminds me that I have been meaning to paint my "coyote rifle". I might have to get that done soon. Probably going to do some sort of tumbleweed type of camo pattern. I also have an idea to do a sort of black/gray "urban camo" pattern on something using a punisher skull stencil for the pattern.
I can get you a real tumble weed if you need.