I was going to say what if you lived on a submarine, but then you likely didn't bring along your long range rifle.
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I was going to say what if you lived on a submarine, but then you likely didn't bring along your long range rifle.
I use two small levels and it seems much easier and less time consuming than the plumb line, but I've never tried it so I can't be sure. Also, you absolutely 100% want your scope plumb with your bore axis.
Most optics companies will have an acceptable error rate for the canting of their reticles, which is why it's always preferable to level the reticle and not the exterior of the scope. I usually start by leveling the rifle and a flat part of the scope like the top of the turret, but then always check against something plumb to make sure the reticle is level. Shoot some box drills and see if the scope tracks.
I've never put this much thought or energy into leveling a scope, and I've never had a reason to complain about any of my rifles not performing as expected. Maybe I got lucky, maybe I just don't shoot long enough ranges.
If I was to use this method, I'd go with sewing thread or fishing line for the plumb line. It should make the alignment more precise.
I ran across this tool a while back. It mechanically levels your scope, without using a bubble level. It should work if the bottom of your scope's control cluster is square with your reticle and the flat on your scope mount/receiver is square with the plumb-plane through your bore axis.
http://arisakadefense.com/collection...-leveler-combo
Arisaka copied that from Spuhr. Mile High sells the real-deal Spuhr. It's a bit more money, but it isn't IP theft. ;)
http://spuhrwebshop.com/en/spares/a-0080-81.html