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  1. #11
    QUITTER Irving's Avatar
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    I was going to say what if you lived on a submarine, but then you likely didn't bring along your long range rifle.
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  2. #12
    Machine Gunner Guylee's Avatar
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    I use two small levels and it seems much easier and less time consuming than the plumb line, but I've never tried it so I can't be sure. Also, you absolutely 100% want your scope plumb with your bore axis.
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  3. #13
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    Most optics companies will have an acceptable error rate for the canting of their reticles, which is why it's always preferable to level the reticle and not the exterior of the scope. I usually start by leveling the rifle and a flat part of the scope like the top of the turret, but then always check against something plumb to make sure the reticle is level. Shoot some box drills and see if the scope tracks.

  4. #14
    Gives a sh!t; pretends he doesn't HoneyBadger's Avatar
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    I've never put this much thought or energy into leveling a scope, and I've never had a reason to complain about any of my rifles not performing as expected. Maybe I got lucky, maybe I just don't shoot long enough ranges.
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  5. #15
    Machine Gunner Guylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtlmj View Post
    Most optics companies will have an acceptable error rate for the canting of their reticles, which is why it's always preferable to level the reticle and not the exterior of the scope. I usually start by leveling the rifle and a flat part of the scope like the top of the turret, but then always check against something plumb to make sure the reticle is level. Shoot some box drills and see if the scope tracks.
    What would you say the acceptable error rate is? Just curious.
    Just call me 47

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guylee View Post
    What would you say the acceptable error rate is? Just curious.
    Leupold used to say up to 2 degrees was acceptable. Don't know if that is still the case. I've seen high-end scopes like Khales need to be sent back for excessive cant.

  7. #17
    Paper Hunter Storm's Avatar
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    If I was to use this method, I'd go with sewing thread or fishing line for the plumb line. It should make the alignment more precise.

    I ran across this tool a while back. It mechanically levels your scope, without using a bubble level. It should work if the bottom of your scope's control cluster is square with your reticle and the flat on your scope mount/receiver is square with the plumb-plane through your bore axis.

    http://arisakadefense.com/collection...-leveler-combo
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storm View Post
    If I was to use this method, I'd go with sewing thread or fishing line for the plumb line. It should make the alignment more precise.

    I ran across this tool a while back. It mechanically levels your scope, without using a bubble level. It should work if the bottom of your scope's control cluster is square with your reticle and the flat on your scope mount/receiver is square with the plumb-plane through your bore axis.

    http://arisakadefense.com/collection...-leveler-combo
    Arisaka copied that from Spuhr. Mile High sells the real-deal Spuhr. It's a bit more money, but it isn't IP theft.

    http://spuhrwebshop.com/en/spares/a-0080-81.html

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